From Underground Caves to Paradise at Lake Bled: Slovenia

After a 40 minute flight from Bosnia and Herzegovina, we landed in Ljubljana... and don't ask me how to pronounce that! Just kidding. After lots of practicing, we know it's "loobe-la-hanna". 

Pedestrian area of Ljubljana.

Immediately upon landing, we headed off to Ljubljana Castle. This castle is one of five castles open to the public. With a great geographical position, the Ljubljana valley saw its first settlers come in the early Bronze and Iron Age who then settled at the castle hill in the late 13th century BC. Pre-historical settlement reached its peak in the 9th and 8th century BC and gradually weakened. When Celts and (later on) Romans came, this settlement no longer had economic or cultural power. The city walls of Emona were built in 14 and 15 AD during which point the city had approximately 6,000 inhabitants (merchants, craftsmen, clerks, retired soldiers). In the 5th century, the Huns invaded and destroyed Emona. Mentioned again in 1106 when Carinthian aristocratic family Spenheim inherited the ownership of Ljubljana Castle, the death of Ulrich Spanheim in 1269 marked the end of the 150 year dominion of that particular family. Hungarian king Otokar II Premysl conquered the Spanheim property and for the following hundred years, the Castle constantly keep changing ownership. In 1335, Carniola became hereditary property of the Habsburgs. In the 15th century, Austrian Cesar Friderik III of Habsburg completely changed the original castle. In fact, the old Spanheim fortress was almost completely destroyed and a new castle was built. The whole area was expanded, and the Pentagonal Tower was added. 

Entering the castle.

In the mid 17th century, the castle lost its function as a fortress and residence. It became used as a military warehouse and, during the Napoleon's Illyrian Provinces, the castle was used as barracks and a military hospital. After the return of the Austrians in 1815, the castle was turned into a penitentiary for people from Carniola and Carinthia who had been sentenced to up to ten years of imprisonment, operating until 1895 and between 1915 and 1918 it served as a quarantine station for Italian prisoners of war. During the second World War, the castle was an Italian prison but after the capitulation of Italy, it was operated by the Germans. In 1905, the mayor Ivan Hribar municipality bought it and made the castle a place for cultural organizations and, due to a housing shortage, it was partially reorganized into apartments. Complete renovation of the castle started in 1964 when the last inhabitants left to live in the city. As you can tell, all of the places we have been visiting have incredibly complex histories. Does your brain hurt yet?

View from the top of the castle.

Below, you can see two flags on the clock tower at the castle. The left flag is the municipal flag of Ljubljana. Since the 19th century, white and green have been associated with Ljubljana and the municipal coat of arms appears in the middle (the city's symbol is the dragon). The national flag on the right features three horizontal bands of white, blue and red with the Slovene coat of arms in the upper hoist side of the flag.

Clock tower. 

After taking in the views from the castle, we had lunch at Gostilna Na Gradu inside the castle. Our meal started off with seasoned frank's roast beef with olive oil, lemon juice and salt flower; pancetta; Istrian dried and salted cod with candied red pepper; albumin cottage cheese and roasted tomato marinated trout in salt, sugar and laurel, and parsnip; and some kind of blended pumpkin. 

We then got pasta filled with potato and asparagus (which I forgot to take a photo of... oops) and a sea bass filet with broccoli puree, broccoli and cauliflower, and roasted potatoes. 

After lunch, we took the funicular railway from the castle to the city center. Popular with both locals and foreign visitors, it's an easy way to get from the castle hill to the downtown Ljubljana pedestrian area... and the views are great too! 

Walking to the funicular.

Heading down to downtown Ljubljana.

The funicular let us off in Krek Square, opposite the Ljubljana Central Market. 

Part of the market from above.

We walked by a kangaroo fountain (located in front of the puppet theater) en route to the central market.

Kangaroo fountain in Ljubljana.

At the central market, our guide took us to an apple stand where we tried homemade apple juice... Easily the best I've ever had. 

Freshly squeezed apple juice

We also saw a giant milk stand called the mlkekomat. The mlkekomat is an automatic raw milk machine that dispenses non-homogenized, non-pasteurized milk from cows that are never treated with antibiotics... apparently a huge hit with locals!

Milk at the farmer's market

We then went indoors where we sampled freshly baked bread from our guide's favorite baker. I'm not sure exactly what this dark bread was made out of but the important things were that it was delicious and surprisingly healthy. 

Sampling bread

Going across the river, we walked over Butcher's Bridge. Similar to the other famous love bridges worldwide, you're supposed to add a lock with your loved one and throw away the key to have true love forever. Whether or not it works, I have no idea. But, it does make for some pretty photos (especially with the glass border on the bridge... in the right light, the locks reflect perfectly. Talk about great design).

Butcher's Bridge

Locks being reflected on Butcher's Bridge.

Butcher's Bridge is one of three main bridges across the water. There is also the famous Dragon Bridge (which we didn't see closely due to limited time and then being tired from our excursion to Lake Bled). 

Looking out towards Dragon Bridge. 

And, there is also the Triple Bridge. Triple Bridge is just what it sounds like... It's a bridge that veers off into three directions. Between 1929 and 1932, the two side bridges were added to the original stone bridge to a design by architect Jože Plečnik. These two bridges were intended for pedestrians, though downtown Ljubljana is now a pedestrian only zone anyways. 

Looking towards Triple Bridge from Butcher's Bridge. 

From there, we walked towards the Cathedral. Originally occupied by a three-nave Romanic church, it was re-vaulted in the Gothic style after the fire of 1361. In 1469, it was burnt down (presumably by the Turks) and between 1701 and 1706, a new Baroque church with side chapels was built by the Jesuit architect Andrea Pozzo. 

Along the way, we passed by beautiful architecture that I've grown to associate Europe with.

Walking near the Cathedral.

Walking in Downtown Ljubljana. 

When you travel, remember to look in all directions because you'll never know what you'll find. I was looking at the cobbled streets when I came across the manhole cover with a dragon and a castle on it!

Even the manhole covers have dragons on them!

After walking along the river front, we slowly made our way towards the hotel...

Where fresh Slovenian honey was waiting for us in our room! Beekeeping is one of the oldest activities of Slovenians which has recently seen a revival. There are around 10,000 beekeepers in Slovenia who have over 176,000 bee colonies producing 1,500-2,500 tons of honey per year. Every day at breakfast, I'd have fresh honey with my croissant. Delicious!

A variety of Slovenian honey.

We rose early the next morning for our full day adventure to Slovenia's Karst region. The Karst region is commonly known for pršut (air dried ham similar to prosciutto) and Kraski Teran wine, but most visitors go for the caves. 

View from breakfast. Art Deco decals line the windows.

Located only about an hour's drive from Ljubljana, the limestone cave of Škocjan has been sculpted by the underground Reka River that flows through the cave. Fun fact: Reka River literally translates to "river river". The Škocjan cave is about 1,903 feet long and is known for its depth of the underground chasm crossed by a footbridge 148 feet above the rushing river.

Map of the cave system.

To enter the UNESCO site, you first have to walk from the visitor's center down a forested pathway.

Part of the visitor's center.

Walking down towards the cave.

Throughout the cave, you see stunning stalactites, stalagmites and other rock formations. You enter via the Silent Chamber before eventually reaching the deepest part of the cave, where you can hear the force of the rushing Reka River before you even see it. Sadly, photographs inside aren't allowed until you're near the mouth of the cave... But oh my goodness, words and photos wouldn't even do the cave justice. To say that it was magical would be an understatement. You feel as though you're in some alien movie with all the rock formations, sound of dripping water, and cool temperatures. Thankfully, this cave does have electricity so the path is lit up and is fairly well paved. When you visit, you typically walk under 1.5 miles in 2 hours, stopping at viewpoints along the way. 

Exiting the cave.

Looking back towards the cave from the exit.

Some of the rock formations by the exit.

By the exit to the cave.

Looking out towards the mouth of the cave.

UNESCO sign on the exit.

After exiting the mouth of the cave, you walk along a narrow pathway towards the cable car which takes you the rest of the way up. Here, you have a view of the Reka River.

Waterfall on the way to the cable car.

Walking along the pathway. You can see the mouth of the cave by the tree.

Looking up.

Cable car to the top of the hill.

After a quick detour to the gift shop, we headed out to lunch at Majerija in Vipava. 

Driving to the Vipava Valley.

Majerija is a fabulous place for a meal, located on stunning vineyards. 

Arriving at Majerija.

Walking around the property.

Views from Majerija.

We were greeted with drinks...

...Before we sat down for one of the best meals I've had in my entire life. We started off with Vipava Mlinci (lasagna style) with a sauce of seasonal vegetables. 

We then got meat with elder blossom sauce, crunchy ricotta and green peas. 

And to finish the meal, we had the best dessert I've had in my entire life... Homemade cottage cheese mousse with poppy seeds and strawberry sauce. 

Here is a full photo of the plating, because the use of natural plants is just too gorgeous not to show off!

After a little down time, we were off to Jable Castle for dinner. While its basic form is Medieval, the present architecture dates from the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Here, we were treated to a gala dinner by chef Tomaž Kavčič, one of Slovenia's most famous chefs. As we entered the courtyard of the castle, we had fresh Vipava cow cheese with tomato cream and crunchy basil... which was to die for. I could've easily eaten at least 10! 

Food at the welcome reception

We headed upstairs where we were treated to views of the surrounding Slovenian landscape.

View from dinner

We also had a harpist playing!

After settling down, it was time for yet another great meal. We started off with three types of bread... Olive, asparagus (my favorite) and plain.

We then had ravioli with coal, trout and codfish.

Next up was marinated beef, aged for 50 days, with fresh truffles and pepper sauce.

Because I don't eat duck, the chef prepared a selection of vegetables and traditional sweetened apples for the next course.

We then had gin tonic on spoon with juniper aroma. The chef came around to each table with a plate of juniper and then poured some kind of liquid that flowed over the edge of the table.

But we weren't done yet! We still had the "unfinished strudel"-- unfinished because the castle apparently doesn't have an oven. Who knew that this would taste so good!

The next day, we headed back up to our favorite breakfast spot on the 19th floor. The hotel has two dining areas-- one on the 20th floor (the main dining area) and a smaller one on the 19th floor. The 19th floor had a much smaller buffet (though still a great selection) and was extremely quiet, so this became our go-to in the morning. The poached eggs over avocado toast with chili oil also became my go-to breakfast... SO good.

Breakfast! 

Finally, after years of wanting to visit, it was time to head to Slovenia's famous Lake Bled. This emerald-green lake is Slovenia's most popular resort town for locals and tourists alike. Surrounded by some of the highest peaks of the Julian Alps, Bled is picture perfect. This Alpine lake also happens to have Slovenia's only island. 

Looking towards the island.

Traditional wooden boats known as pletnas have been taking visitors to the island in the middle of the lake for centuries. The origin of the pletna boat goes back to 1590 and since then, the respected profession of oarsman has been handed down through generations with the technique of standing rowing mastered by only a few people. 

Rowing towards the island.

As we neared the island, looking across the lake towards Bled Castle on the way, my excitement was growing.

Almost there!

Bled Castle as seen from the pletna boat.

Nearing the island!!

After landing on the island, you climb 99 stone steps to the Assumption of Mary Church. In ancient times, polytheism influenced the area and the island included a temple of the pagan goddess of love. After the local population was converted to Christianity in 745, they were forced to replace their goddess Živa with the Christian Virgin Mary and the ancient Slavic temple was replaced with the church consecrated to the birth of the Virgin Mary. In 1465, a single-nave Gothic church was built on the island. Tradition still has it that the groom should carry his bridge up all the 99 steps to get married in the island church.

Climbing up the stairs.

Bell tower on the island.

Separate from the church, the Bell Tower is 170 feet high. Every 15 minutes, the bells chime. We decided to climb 90 additional steps to see the pendulum clock at the top of the tower.

Looking up the staircase.

After visiting the Bell Tower, we walked back down to where the pletna boat would pick us up...

...Taking touristy photos along the way, of course!

Walking around the dock, I was in awe. The emerald-green water was unlike anything I'd ever seen and the reflections that day were especially beautiful! Amidst all the afternoon thunderstorms, we finally had a sunny day providing beautiful photo opportunities as a result. 

Stunning waters of Bled.

Our oarsman coming back. 

Traditional pletna boats.

We then headed to Bled Castle, perched on a cliffside more than 330 feet above the lake. In 1004, German Emperor Henry II gave his estate at Bled to Bishop Albuin of Brixen. At that time, only a Romanesque tower protected by walls stood in place of the present day castle. In the late Middle Ages, towers were built and fortifications were improved and in 1511 the castle was heavily damaged by an earthquake (it was then restored and given its present appearance). 

Bled Castle as seen from Lake Bled.

Outside of Bled Castle.

Now, Bled Castle is arranged as an exhibition area. During warmer months, the castle courtyard even hosts numerous cultural events. My favorite exhibition area was focused on print making, where a man was demonstrating the letterpress. The graphic designer in me totally nerded out! 

Letterpress demonstration at Bled Castle.

Letterpress demonstration at Bled Castle.

Bled Castle also offers the finest views of Bled Island, the town of Bled, and the wider countryside of the Gorenjska region.

View of Bled Island from above.

The panoramic views from Bled Castle were breathtaking... The below shot was taken with my iPhone!

From Bled Castle, we could see people rowing out to Bled Island, surrounded only by the emerald-green water.

Rowing out to the island.

Bled Island from Bled Castle.

On the upper terrace, we saw the Gothic chapel which was consecrated to the Bishop St. Albuin and St. Ingenium. Built in the 16th century, it was renovated in the Baroque style around 1700 when it was painted with illusionist frescoes. 

Upper terrace of Bled Castle.

Details on the upper terrace.

After taking in the views, we descended the hilly castle and made our way towards our lunch spot.

Castle lamp posts with the Julian Alps in the background.

At lunch, I tried Union Svetlo beer (mainly because it had a dragon on the bottle...).

We started off with baked vegetable terrine with young cheese, pesto, Porcini panna cotta, herb salad, balsamic dressing and a tomato muffin with crème fraiche.

We then had delicious baked turbot fillet with royal crab on young spinach and seasonal vegetable fricassee with a buttery saffron sauce.

For dessert, we had almond cake with sour cream mousse and Jurka grape jelly, pineapple ravioli with mango, raspberry sauce and acacia honey, and blood orange sorbet.

After a room service dinner (the sun at the lake made us tired!!), we ordered Slovenia's honey cake... a must try for anyone visiting.

After one last breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to Slovenia. With its charming towns, friendly locals, and amazing food, Slovenia has easily become one of my favorite countries I've visited thus far. Next stop: Croatia!

Last breakfast at the hotel.

Thanks for reading about my latest adventures. Stay tuned for what's to come and be sure to hit the subscribe button on the homepage to be notified of new posts. As always, follow my instagram @elissatitle for more pics.