Off the Beaten Path: Algeria

Hello, fellow adventurers! 

It's been quite awhile since my last adventure across Asia and Africa but I'm thrilled to be back at it... this time recounting my experiences in Northern Africa. In late September, my travels took me to a country many know little about: Algeria. It's the largest country in Africa by area (and the 10th largest in the world) and is home to seven UNESCO World Heritage sites. Bordering the Mediterranean Sea to the north, Algeria has nearly 1,000 miles of coastline and shares borders with Tunisia and Libya to the east, Niger and Mali to the south, Mauritania and Western Sahara to the southwest, and Morocco to the west. The country has a range of geographical features, noticeably the Atlas Mountains which form the backbone of Algeria running in a northeast-southwest direction and the Tell Atlas, a coastal range that borders the Mediterranean Sea and provides a backdrop to Algeria's bustling cities and fertile plains. Almost 90% of Algeria is desert, with the Sahara covering much of southern Algeria. With a population of 43 million, Algeria is a mosaic of influences (ancient Berber tribes, Roman conquerors, Islamic scholars, and French colonizers) that has positioned the country as a melting pot of languages, traditions, and cultures. With tourism still a novelty, travel to Algeria provides a true off the beaten path adventure with welcoming locals, UNESCO sites with few (if any) other people, and a kaleidoscope of colors anywhere you look. 

I landed in Algiers in the late afternoon on September 21 and rushed off the plane as I heard the customs line is lengthly and slow the farther back you are. It was to my surprise that the customs forms were hidden in a corner of the room, barely visible if you weren't looking for them. I hastily grabbed one and filled it out while waiting in line. When it was my turn to present my visa (which came with my passport on my birthday earlier in the year!), I was asked a lot of questions about why I was traveling to Algeria. After curious questions, I was free to collect my bag which was already waiting on the carousel for me in record speed! I met my driver, and together we drove to the hotel. 

View of the Sofitel Algiers from the Club Floor.

The following day was at leisure to recover from jet lag, though I did take a walk in the neighboring Hamma Botanical Garden, also known as the Hamma test garden. It was created in 1832 with the aim of introducing and acclimating new plant species to Algeria, after the French colony began undertaking remediation work on the marshlands to cultivate agricultural soil. In 1914, the Hamma garden became a public garden though with the Second World War the occupation of the premises by allied troops caused significant damage. The rehabilitation and restoration of the garden began as soon as the requisition was lifted and by 1947, it was restored and listed as a national natural heritage site. During Algeria's deadly civil war, the garden was closed to the public and was officially reopened to the public in 2009. Today, it is organized into three zones: the French formal garden in the west, the experimental part in the center of the garden containing greenhouses and special plant collections, and the English garden on the east side where there is a large pond full of Japanese carp and plants from all over the world. Below are some photos from our stroll, including the large Banyan tree from the Tarzan film in 1932! 

The famous "Tarzan tree".

After an afternoon at leisure we drove up to the Martyr's monument, an abstract monolith that dominates Algiers' skyline. It's believed that the monument depicts three standing palm leaves reminiscent of an open book, which represents the chapters of Algerian history and chapters of the Quran. 

Within the monument, an eternal flame burns in remembrance of the fallen heroes who sacrificed their lives in pursuit of Algeria's freedom. After dinner, we returned to our hotel to rest up for the following day's adventure. 

After a quick breakfast overlooking the port of Algiers, we were off to explore the city center and the casbah. To understand Algeria, its architecture, art, and people, is to understand the country's rich history and cultural influences. Culturally, Algerians were influenced by the various civilizations that prospered around the Mediterranean, with Arabs and the French leaving the deepest impressions (the Arabs with the establishment of the Islamic religion and strong linguistic legacy, and the French with the contribution of French culture and language, which today makes Algeria a quintessentially French-speaking country). Dating further back (as early as the 1st millennium BCE), the Phoenicians established trading posts along the North African coast and these settlements laid the foundation for future interactions with Mediterranean civilizations including the Greeks and the Romans. In the 2nd century BCE, the region came under Roman rule and cities such as Timgad and Djémila flourished as centers of commerce and culture. The spread of Christianity during the Roman period left an impact with numerous churches and religious sites dotting the landscape, but the rise of Islam in the 7th century CE is what shaped the future of the region. Along with Islam came learning, science, and culture, and Algeria became a center for Islamic scholarship. In the 16th century, Algeria fell under Ottoman rule and became part of the Ottoman Empire. While the ports became hubs for commerce and diplomacy, the region became notorious for piracy as Algerian corsairs preyed on European shipping in the Mediterranean. Along with the invasion of France in 1830 came economic interests in fertile agricultural land, forced labor to suppress Algerian resistance and consolidate French control, and the introduction of modern infrastructure including railways, roads, and urban planning. All this to say, the country (and Algiers in particular) has textured architecture from wide French boulevards and elegant apartments to Socialist era monuments and public buildings to an Islamic heart secreted in the hillside casbah. 

We began our walk in downtown Algiers from one of the town squares down to the seaside promenade, a very European feeling stretch of sidewalk lined by shops, restaurants, and hotels. Below are a few photos, including the Grande Poste (main post office) which is an example of French designed Moorish architecture. 

Algiers' post office.

From there, we hopped in our bus and drove up to the hillside casbah, which is unfortunately deteriorating due to earthquakes and overpopulation (there are currently about 40,000-60,000 living in the casbah). The term "casbah" refers to a fortified citadel or fortress, typically found in North Africa, while a "medina" refers to the old walled part of a city. Together, these two elements form the backbone of Algerian urban life with casbahs serving as defensive strongholds and medinas as centers of trade and culture. In so many ways, it's the heart of the city. We meandered the narrow alleyways passing by bread vendors, street cats, colorful murals, and shops proudly displaying the Algerian flag in the form of garlands fluttering above your head. 

The start of the casbah.

We passed through the more commercialized medina, where locals were selling fresh produce including bananas, grapes, beets, onions, tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, and more. 

We ducked our heads into small shops we passed along the way...

...and stopped for some traditional pastries and mint tea. 

It's considered unlucky to eat dates in even numbers! 

Don't forget the incredible views we were afforded by climbing a local woodworker's staircase to his rooftop patio! 

We then visited the National Public Museum of Illumination Miniature and Calligraphy, located in the palace of Mustapha Pasha in the casbah. 

The former palace dates back to the Ottoman period and was built in 1799 AD. Miniature is a traditional craft that involves creating small-scale paintings on a variety of items such as books, textiles, and walls. These miniatures are often documentary images of life, environment, customs, beliefs, rituals, historical events, architecture, costumes, and arts. Illumination is another technique when manuscripts are decorated through the application of gold or silver. Literally "to light up" or "enlightenment", the tradition of illuminating manuscripts exists across many cultures and religions and extends to sacred and non-sacred texts. This 13th century art form originated in Persia and incorporates the heavy use of gold along with arabesque and floral elements representing nature in a divine form. 

Below are some photos from the palace and museum. 

After a quick bite to eat... 

Beef with couscous and a tomato sauce.

... And a quick stop to pick up dates for the bus ride...

...We ended our day with a visit to the Palace of Rais. A battery was erected at the bottom of the rampart by the sea front to fortify the defensive system and to protect the north western side of the city from any foreign invasions. Formerly, the palace was considered as the starting and return points of the Rais from their missions but today it is the only evidence of the extension of the urban fabric of the casbah from the mountain to the sea. Today, the site is composed of a group of Moorish style buildings with three palaces, covered corridors, fishermen houses, and a path round the battlements and a battery (a high defensive wall). 

In Palace 23, the ceilings are made of cedar that resists humidity, earthquakes, and mites. Some are non-trimmed wooden beams while others are decorated with geometrical and floral shapes. 

The columns are made of marble or limestone tuff to support the weight of the construction. Depending on the location, some are twisted, some are semi-twisted, some are octagonal, some are braided, and some are semi-braided. At the top of the columns are the chapitals, which are made of marble or limestone, most of them being in the Corinthian style bearing a crescent symbolizing the Ottoman presence. 

On the upper floor (known as haramlak, which is dedicated to women), railings add to the elegance of the palace in the form of open wood. 

Throughout, the tiles were imported from different locations such as Holland (Delft), Italy, Spain, and Tunisia, while some are also local to Algeria. The tiles are ornamented with the Clove and Acanthus flower, Anemone flowers, pine trees, and more. 

Downstairs, there's an extensive museum dedicated to seafaring and Rais culture (the Rais held leadership positions on ships). 

On the outside of the palace, you can view the recently restored "Al-Ja'ab" (cannon) which was used on ships to demolish fortress walls. 

We bid farewell to Algiers the next morning, stopping at the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania just outside of the city. 

The circular funery monument consists of three main parts: a stone base consisting of three rows surmounted by a large stone cylinder and adorned by 60 columns of Ionic style bearing crown, four rectangular illusion doors with a cross, and the conical shape consisted of 37 steps surmounted by a stone cylindrical top. This royal Numidian mausoleum is in excellent condition, and we were the only tourists there! 

Next up was Tipasa, our first Roman ruin site and one of Algeria's UNESCO World Heritage Sites... for good reason! With its cliffside position, Tipasa was a city that was at its height in the 2nd century AD during Phoenician and Roman rule. 

During the Phoenician period, Tipasa was a commercial center for docking ships and exchanging goods due to its strategic location surrounded by fertile agricultural plains. In 46 AD, Emperor Claudius granted Tipasa with a municipal law status and the Latin right to become a Roman colony characterized by a luxurious morphology of buildings. Life here continued until the fifth century AD when the region saw attacks of the Vandals and it fell in the sixth century AD under the grip of the Byzantines. 

The site itself is massive, with amphitheaters, temples, and Roman houses dotting the coastline. The Roman theater here was once a stage for grand performances where dynamic plays and elaborate production brought entertainment to the people of Tipasa, though today it lies barren. Some photos are below.

We had a seafood lunch overlooking the ruins complete with deliciously fresh figs before we continued to the coastal town of Oran, our home for the next two nights. 

Founded by Andalusian merchants at the start of the 10th century, Algeria's second largest port has a strong Spanish influence which can be seen in its architecture. Nobel Prize winner Albert Camus was born here, and many of his stories are set in Oran. Often referred to as the "Gateway to the West", this port city has been ruled by various civilizations including the Berbers, Arabs, Ottomans, and French. Its home to rai, a form of Algerian folk music that dates back to the 1920s and combines traditional Algerian sounds with elements of western pop, rock, and jazz, to create an unique sound. 

This city was easily one of my favorites, with stunning architecture every direction you looked. Our conveniently located hotel enabled us to do a walking tour, looping around from building to building. We passed the old synagogue (no longer functioning), buildings with frescoes adorning the top, and a stunning church that has since been converted to a public library. 

We also visited the train station of Oran, built during the French occupation on behalf of the French railway company. The most remarkable feature here is its neo-Moorish style evident in the clock tower, which has the shape of a Moorish minaret surmounted by a small lantern. 

The lobby is crowned with a large 8-sided dome, decorated on its underside with muqarnas (pointed niches arranged in tiers that appear to form a honeycomb or staircase). 

Below are some photos of the outside of the station.

We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant called Ambiance, which ended up being one of my favorite meals of the entire trip. Inherited from Berber culinary traditions, then influenced over the centuries by Ottoman, Spanish, and then French gastronomy, Algerian cuisine is a rich blend of Mediterranean flavors and scents. It's characterized by the use of herbs and spices (saffron, cumin, coriander, mint, thyme, basil, pepper, cinnamon, and more) which both flavor and enhance the taste of Algerian dishes. At this meal, we had a traditional chorba soup (made from lentil and chickpea) with bourek (also known as "brik", which is essentially a fried egg roll with meat), and a delicious chicken tangine with olives and potatoes. 

Chorba soup.

Brik.

Chicken with olives and potatoes. 

Afterward, we visited the restored private home and private museum of Yves Saint Laurent, the French fashion designer. The museum was dotted with family photos and, of course, fashion sketches. 

The outside of Yves Saint Laurent's home.

We ended our day up Mount Murdjadjo at the Santa Cruz Fort, originally an Ottoman building rebuilt by the Spanish. Offering a bird's-eye view of Oran, it was definitely a scenic way to end our day! 

From Oran, we flew back to Algiers and continued overland across northern Algeria, heading east to Setif. Driving through the countryside of Kabylia in the foothills of the Tell Atlas Mountains, we made a detour to visit a Berber village as Algeria has the largest Berber population in North Africa. We drove up and up and up, winding our way up the narrow mountain road watching the buildings below getting smaller and smaller. 

Finally, we arrived at a Berber village in Seddouk in the Béjaïa Province. The entire village greeted us with cheese, olives, camel milk, and sweet bread, before we sat down for a family style meal with them. 

We explored the narrow, hilly streets and the old mosque, which is no longer functional (they've since built a new one). The kids demonstrated traditional Berber dances, getting us to join in on their little dance party, and we ended our visit with some mint tea in the village's library. 

Arriving in Setif, one of Algeria's highest towns at 3,596 feet, we visited the Archeological Museum of Setif which is deceptively large! I was blown away at the extensive collection of Roman coins and, more notably, the near-perfect condition of the Roman mosaics displayed on the walls and floors. 

Traveling east, we arrived at the relatively unknown UNESCO World Heritage Site of Djémila, also known as Cuicul. Founded in the 1st century AD, it became an important Roman colony known for its hillside setting and today it's known for its well-preserved ruins. The city's highlights include its intricate mosaics depicting scenes from everyday life, mythological tales, and Roman symbols which are displayed in an other-worldly fashion as part of the site's museum. 

The expansive archaeological site boasts a forum, temples, basilicas, triumphal arches, and houses, and is a fascinating example of a Roman town that adapted to its mountain location because you would never have known it was there... it's extremely isolated. It makes you wonder how the Romans got there! With virtually no other people at the site, my breath was taken away at my first glimpse of this once thriving Roman city, and again when we visited the museum with over 3,000 square feet of mosaics... the most extensive collection in Algeria! Below are some of the many highlights from one of my all time favorite travel days in my travels to nearly 90 countries across 7 continents. 

After a half day exploring the site, we arrived in the mountain city of Constantine, Algeria's third largest city after Algiers and Oran. Here, the Rhumel River's deep gorges slice through the town and buildings perch precariously along the cliffs which are connected by bridges offering dramatic vistas and lending it the nickname of "City of Bridges". Like Algiers, it is a cultural blend of various influences including French, Roman, Moorish, and Islamic architecture. The city has an incredible 3,000 years of history behind it, making it one of the oldest towns in the world. 

While most hotels in Algeria are not fancy, the Marriott Constantine was something else. With stunning views of the Emir Abdelkader Mosque and remnants of the old Roman aqueduct, the view from the room didn't disappoint... nor did the hotel lobby!

View of the Roman aqueduct from the room.

The incredible hotel lobby.

Our full day in Constantine started with a visit to the Emir Abdelkader Mosque. The construction of this mosque started in 1968 as a desire to build a mosque capable of accommodating 10,000 people in its prayer hall, but when the then president became involved, it grew into the current, ambitious building... one of the world's largest mosques and Algeria's first modern, Islamic university. The intricate design elements and grand structure captivated me from the moment I stepped inside in my abaya... all women are expected to be covered form head to toe here. The mosaic work was stunning in the morning light, with rainbow patterns appearing on the carpet. Below are some of my favorite photos.

After our visit to the mosque, we walked around the city starting at the top of the Monument aux Mortis (a war memorial dedicated to specific battles and heroes) and winding our way down through the marketplace until we arrived at our lunch location.

From there, we visited the Moorish-style palace of Ahmad Bey, known for its Islamic-style architecture. More striking to me, however, were the intricate details and vibrant colors of various doorways —  each one was different!

The following morning, we drove south to Timgad (a UNESCO-acclaimed site of a Roman military settlement). Along the way, we stopped at the Medracen, the largest pre-Roman building in North Africa thought to be the tomb of the Berber kings.

Across an expansive area on the northern slope of Mount Aures, paved streets, baths, temples, and houses decorated with mosaics were constructed where there had been nothing before. Now the largest archaeological park in Algeria, Timgad was founded by Roman Emperor and solider Trajan in 100 CE and continued to grow and thrive until the Arab invasion. Vacated in the 8th century, the site now houses a museum with over 200 mosaics recovered from the site and stunning archaeological features. Some of my favorite photos from the site are below.

A photographer in her natural environment! 

...And from the museum...

As we went further south, Algeria became more and more conservative which meant we had to get creative with our happy hours. With the hotel's permission, we had a wine o'clock hour on the hotel's rooftop, with views of Timgad as the sun was setting... the perks of being at a hotel directly across the street! 

The following day, we continued our roadtrip southwest to Biskra, driving through the pass of Tighanimine, a beautiful gorge and high ground during the Algerian Revolutionary War. We stopped along the side of the road to view a memorial plaque and take in the views, before stopping in Ghoufi (pronounced "Goofy" like from Mickey Mouse) further down the road. Here, layered sediment has created Algeria's own "Grand Canyon" and the views of the oasis towns below were stunning. There was an opportunity for some roadside shopping, and I bought a small tangine pot to take home with me. 

We had a brief leg stretch at a mosque in Sidi Okba. Uqba ibn Nafi, one of the Prophet's companions and governor of Ifriqiya, met his death during a battle against Koceïla and his troops, who were waiting for him near Tehouda on his return from an expedition that had led him as far as the Atlantic. The mosque was built around his tomb, which is visible to visitors today. 

We finally arrived in el-Oued, the largest of the Souf Oases in northeastern Algeria (in the northern Sahara just 50 miles from the border with Tunisia). Affectionally named the "City of a Thousand Domes", it's a picturesque town in a region more renowned as being in an endless sea of sand. As a means of shielding itself from the unrelenting summer heat, most of the buildings have domes and, one thousand years later, this unique form of desert architecture enables El-Oued to stand out from other towns in the region. 

Surprisingly, for being in a sea of sand, there is a beautiful resort nestled among the sand dunes. One of my favorite hotels on the trip, this resort and spa is located on a date plantation. Walking the never-ending pathways, you're surrounded by dates (and the accompanying flies) in every direction. The intricate architecture is art in itself, with decorated domes in the hotel lobby, carved wooden doors, tile work, and soothing colors. Below are some photos from around the resort...

... and from my room. Silly as it may be, being able to fall asleep under a green dome every night was one of the highlights of this trip! 

El Oued's market was just as special. It was chaotic and colorful, with incense and spices, honking motorcycles and local chatter, and the bright green of herbs contrasted against piles of dried peppers and walnuts. It was a feast for the senses.  

Within the market, we wandered into a traditional coffee shop where the floor was sand and men gathered around on egg crates playing dominoes. 

We meandered through shops selling jewelry, clothing, food, spices, and more, as we dodged locals shopping on a Tuesday morning. We also visited the small, but impressive, museum that had random displays of old radios and collectibles mixed with life-like displays of traditional Berber camps and violent recreations of prison murders complete with sound effects. 

The domed houses El Oued is famous for.

From El Oued, we drove to the M'Zab Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprised of five fortified villages founded by a small religious sect who took refuge on an inhospitable edge of the Sahara, 373 miles inland. The people of this region, the M'zabites, have protected and preserved their traditional ways of life since the 11th century despite their desert surroundings. At the center of each community is the mosque, designed as a citadel with its minaret doubling as a watchtower. Houses are laid out in concentric rings and the whole settlement is encircled in protective walls, with even the gates closing to all visitors during evening and early morning hours. 

Second to El Oued, the market of Ghardaïa was my favorite, but perhaps I'm biased because here, I was on a mission. We first walked through all the stalls to get an overview of how the market was laid out.

...And then my mission was a go! Prior to leaving my house in Los Angeles, I had measured my living room for a rug upon reading Ghardaïa was known for its handwoven, wool rugs. I had my mom help me measure, and the whole time I think she was thinking there was no way I'd find a rug with the right colors and/or the right size. Determined, I set off to every rug store I could find in the marketplace. Sure enough, the first store that initially caught my eye is where I found a rug.

The outside of the shop that caught my eye.

Although the shopkeeper spoke no English and I don't speak French or Arabic, we were able to communicate with him enough to ask him to lay the rug out in the sunshine (it was hanging in the lefthand corner of his shop where it was very dark). Immediately, I knew I found my rug, but I didn't know how I'd get it home. Enlisting the help of our local guide, I told the shopkeeper that if he could fold it or roll it so that I could carry it home in my suitcase, I'd buy it right then. People often say when there's a will there's a way, and this was no exception. He folded it and rolled it as small as it could possibly go and showed me. Skeptical, but still wanting the rug, I told him with a laugh that even if I had to leave my clothes in Algeria I'd still buy it... and so I did. 

Rolling out the rug to measure it... it was the exact measurements I needed.

Me with the shop owner... You can see my rug rolled up in the black bag on the left!

Surprisingly, the rug did fit into my suitcase without me having to throw away clothes and without my suitcase being overweight. It now happily lives in my living room, and I'm so grateful to have this reminder of Algeria here with me. 

For lunch, we had a delicious shawarma at a small, local shop popular with the locals. Of course, I had to have more brik and chorba, too! 

Following lunch, we set off to visit Beni Isguen, another one of the fortified towns in the region. Some say this feels like another country, with ancient, unchanging social codes. Here, you cannot take any pictures of locals and the women wear a traditional white haik, a head-to-toe wool wrap that covers their entire body, exposing just one triangle of skin over one eye (the other eye remains covered). While we couldn't take pictures of people, we could take pictures of the narrow streets, which felt abandoned as we patiently waited for people to leave our view before taking a photograph. 

Of course I had to climb a tower, too!

We rose early the following morning for our 8-hour drive southward into the heart of the Sahara to Timimoun. With the day essentially lost in transit, we began our touring the next morning with a walk around downtown and a visit to a local market. 

After our market walk, we visited one of the mud-brick ksours (fortified villages) renowned for their orcher color, which gives Timimoun the nickname "the red oasis". Walking around, it felt as though the village was swept away in time, with red sand piling high at the doors and buildings long since abandoned. The wind was howling here—it felt like a small sandstorm! 

Back in town, we had a family-style meal of brik and chorba (of course) and delicious chicken over a saffron rice, very similar in taste to Persian cuisine. 

Our last evening in the Sahara was spent on a desert 4x4 excursion where we visited other-worldly rock formations and sipped mint tea as the sun set over the dunes. 

After a very long 13-hour drive back to Algiers in a pick up truck, I spent one last day in the capital exploring a few last sites. 

Camels on the side of the road as we drove back to Algiers.

I woke up to one last sunrise...

...Took one last seaside stroll...

... And visited one last museum for my last glimpse of Roman mosaics and Islamic art.

Of course, I had one last, incredible meal! 

My time in Algeria can best be described as unexpected. No one knows much about the country and there are only a handful of guidebooks detailing what to see and do. I went in with no expectations, and left the country mesmerized by the people, Roman sites, tile work, and architecture. While it's an uncommon destination, it's absolutely worth a visit. I hope to return one day.

Thanks for following along with our adventures. As always, follow my Instagram @elissatitle for photos and stay tuned for more!