Summer is my favorite time of the year to travel. Why? It's usually when the African adventures resume. While I've traveled to Northern Africa recently, I haven't been on a safari since 2022, which means I was long overdue! Finally, this summer it was time to return to where I feel the most alive. It was time to return to my favorite continent. It was time to return to Kenya, for my fourth visit to this incredible country. From the culture and people to the landscapes and wildlife, Kenya has long been a favorite destination of mine.
The trip initially started a little rocky. On our first flight, the plane jerked super hard and the pilot came on the intercom. He said we caught turbulence from a passing aircraft and with ATC’s help we will “try to steer clear”. We were left wondering what that even meant, with no additional explanation given. Of course there was also a kid screaming the entire time. The transfer in Heathrow was like running a marathon—long walks coupled with bus transfers and (even with a two-hour connection) we barely made our connecting flight as boarding was almost complete.
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| Celebrating making our connecting flight. |
On our second flight, someone was listening to their iPad without headphones (at full volume) for almost the entire flight. Once we landed in Nairobi though, it was very much "hakuna matata"—no troubles, no worries. We swiftly made our way to our hotel, checked in, showered, and fell asleep skipping dinner. The following morning, it was all systems go after a leisurely breakfast.
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| View of Nairobi from the hotel room. |
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| Safari gear ready to go in our hotel in Nairobi! |
We transferred to Nairobi's regional airport, Wilson, where we caught our scheduled charter flight to the Masai Mara, which I hadn't visited since 2006, long before I was into photography.
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| Walking to our charter flight at Wilson Airport. |
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| Mom and I ready to go! |
As you lift off over the concrete jungle, you soar right over Nairobi National Park. If you're lucky, you might see an elephant or two. As you slowly leave the city behind, the buildings become more sparse, the landscape more barren and dry. Seemingly never-ending red dirt roads snake across the landscape forming abstract yet intricate patterns. The gentle hum and vibration of the propeller lulls you to sleep until, finally, you've made it.
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| Flying over Nairobi en route to the Masai Mara. |
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| Landing in the Masai Mara. |
Fun fact of the day: "Masai Mara" is usually spelled with only one "a" in "Masai". However, the name of the local people, the Maasai, is usually spelled with a double "aa". The reason for that is that the Maasai are the people who speak the language called "Maa".
When British and German colonists arrived in Kenya at the end of the 19th century, the Maasai people occupied an area from central Tanzania to Mount Kenya. In Maa, the word "Mara" means "spotted" or "mottled", describing the texture of the Masai Mara, with its alternating grassland and thickets. Unlike, for example Tsavo, the Masai Mara is not a national park. Instead, it is designated a national reserve still "owned" by the Maasai.
As soon as we landed, I unpacked my gear, at the ready. You never know when a lodge transfer can turn into an exciting game driver, after all!
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| Camera gear at the ready! |
Not even five minutes after landing at Mara Serena Airstrip, we came across a lioness drinking right at our vehicle. In East Africa, this is a special treat as you're not allowed to off road in many parks in this region (compared to Southern Africa, where you often can).
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| Staring contest! |
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| Crouching down for a drink. |
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| For perspective, this is our car in relation to where she drank. |
We slowly meandered on to camp passing general game: zebra, wildebeest, topi, and giraffe.
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| Zebra on the side of the road. |
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| Zebra grazing. |
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| An iconic Masai Mara landscape: herds of wildebeest with zebras and giraffes. |
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| A herd of wildebeest moving away from the Mara River. |
When we arrived at our camp in the Mara, we put our camera gear down in the media tent and had a quick tour of our home for the next six nights (photos below).
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| Entrance to camp. |
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| Entering the main area of camp. |
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| Comfy outdoor lounge. |
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| The media tent. Tell me you're on a photography trip without telling me you're on a photography trip! |
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The dining tent/indoor lounge/bar area.
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| This Maasai beaded chandelier added a great touch!! |
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| Walking in the thickets to our tent. |
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| This was our tent. At night, you zip down the outer layer (the one closest to the mirror) so the animals don't come in, During the day, you leave the main part of the tent (where the beds are) zipped so the animals don't go inside. |
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| Home for the next 6 nights, complete with standing dressers so we could fully unpack. |
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| View from our tent, looking out towards the Mara River. Our sink and shower were outside, as well as super comfy day beds! |
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| You can't forget the famous bucket shower... always a highlight in my trips to Africa! While many properties are becoming more modern and moving away from the bucket shower, it's always something authentic that I look forward to. |
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| And... Our resident hippos across the water. We heard these guys like clockwork every night. |
After the tent tours, our group sat down over afternoon tea, introduced ourselves and went around the table talking about what photography styles we like and what got us into photography in the first place. The one theme everyone had in common? Africa instantly made us feel at home and has been an addiction ever since. To me, Africa is more than a place. It’s a sense of community—the incredible guides, rangers, camp staff, and people you meet along the way. It’s a feeling—the way a lion chase gets your adrenaline pumping, the way the wind blows through your hair, the way friendly faces greet you everywhere you go. It’s an experience—where you learn about the local culture, where the drums pound in your chest and the singing echoes over the campfire crackle at night. It’s the way the skies look like someone threw glitter because there’s so many stars, the way the smell of dust instantly makes me yearn for the African red dirt roads. Africa is so much more than just a place. To me, Africa is a sense of belonging. It’s where I feel the most alive. The most myself. The most at home.
Finally, it was time for our first afternoon game drive. Bags slung over our shoulders, we piled into the safari cars, unpacking our camera gear and spare chargers so it would always be at the ready.
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| The safari squad was ready to go! |
We bumped through the thickets as we turned away from the Mara River, cutting back across alongside the river once reaching a main road, where my favorite bird was waiting to say hello.
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| A lilac breasted roller. |
As we drove, we noticed a build up of zebra on the opposite bank of the river.
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| Zebras checking out the Mara River to see if they'd cross. |
I thought, "Could we really be so lucky as to see a river crossing on our first afternoon? No way!" We observed as two bold zebra cautiously made their way down the sandy hill, peering into the water before scattering back uphill. Down and up. Down and up. Down and up. The pattern repeated.
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| Waiting by the river, hoping for a crossing and not wanting to leave as we'd lose our spot if there was a crossing! |
Curious, we scanned the waters where we found a crocodile lying in wait. Unlike wildebeest, zebras are quite smart and there was no way they'd cross with a crocodile waiting for its next meal. So, we moved on. We crossed shallow water channels with what we grew to call the resident crocodile, as he was there almost every day. When he wasn't, there was often a hippo. Sometimes, no one would be home.
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| Our resident crocodile. |
We traversed the plains, watching the storm clouds roll in making the plains appear even more golden with the dramatic showers slowly rolling in, thundering at a distance.
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| Dramatic skies as shot on iPhone. |
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| You never know when you'll find a nice photo moment... this was taken at a bush bathroom stop! |
At beer o'clock (5:30 PM, to be precise), we cracked open our first Tusker, my favorite beer, with the Mara River as our scenic backdrop (keep in mind this is a photography trip, we we don't break for sundowners! We take them in the car).
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| Tusker and the Mara. |
We used to be able to purchase Tusker in California by special order but ever since the Covid lockdown, the U.S. hasn't been importing Tusker, so it makes it all the more special when I can finally savor it. Even more special than that? Enjoying a beer with lions that we found seconds after opening our beer, casually laying on a mound by the Mara River as the sun set on a successful first afternoon in the Mara.
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| My happy place! |
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| Lions on a mound by the Mara River. |
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| Lion cubs staring right at us. |
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| Lazy lions... of course. |
Back at camp, we were greeted with hot towels and drinks around the campfire. Back in our tents, gifted Maasai shukas were waiting for us, complete with a lovely note from the team.
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| Maasai shukas! |
Clothes now set aside for the next day's adventure, we quickly fell asleep to the chorus of Africa.
5:20 AM: My alarm went off, because I like a little extra time to get ready.
5:30 AM: Camp staff were outside my tent saying "GOOD MORNING!" The staff had already chased out the animals around camp, but I could still hear the hippos grunting and bushes rustling as I brushed my teeth. I always almost forget to apply my sunscreen, but I remembered at the last second... the sun rises quickly in the Mara!
5:45 AM: Illuminated by a small flashlight, we walked on the dirt path slowly winding my way in the pitch blackness, making my way to the campfire, staring up at the dazzling night sky. I grabbed some coffee, rusks, and some fruit, chatting with fellow travelers about what animals we heard during the night. "Did you hear the lions? The hyena? Oh, there was a hippo by your room?"
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| Morning campfire in the Mara. |
6:00 AM: As they say, the early bird gets the worm! I grabbed all my camera gear and loaded up into the safari car for an exciting day of adventure, knowing the mornings are always my favorite, waking up in sync with the African bush as it comes alive.
If I had to choose, yes, mornings in Africa are my favorite. It's the quiet stillness where you hear your every step with a gentle background chorus of hippos grunting their good mornings and chirps of birds starting their morning bird songs. It's when you slowly wake up, look up at a never-ending sky full of stars, and smile to yourself just because. It's when you have the brisk air lapping at your face gently blowing campfire smoke your way. And what a campfire it is... Conversation ebbs and flows above the crackle until the fire dies and it's time to head to the media tent to pack up the camera bags for the day.
Walking towards the driveway illuminated now by a soft blue hue with stars fading into early daylight, the vehicles hummed in anticipation of the day ahead. This is always my typical African morning, and I simply wouldn't have it any other way.
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| Early morning in the Mara. |
Our first full day was no less magical. We found lions at first light, which is always such a special treat to me.
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| Lioness in the early morning light. |
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| Experimenting with black and white. |
Having lived in Zimbabwe, lions have held a special place in my heart ever since. If you've been following my blogs for awhile, you likely know some random facts about lions but for those that don't, here are just a few to put things into perspective...
Lions are currently listed as "Vulnerable" on the IUCN Red List. Today, lion populations exist in only 7.4% of their historical range, a dramatic decrease of 36% just since 2002. As of 2023-2025, it's estimated that there are around 23,000 lions in the whole of Africa, including West and Central Africa which are particularly threatened. East Africa remains a key stronghold for lions, but even here populations are under pressure (with Kenya having an approximate 1,600 lions, or fewer, in the entire country according to 2025 estimates). Smaller, more isolated populations are especially vulnerable to disease outbreaks, interbreeding, prey shortages, and human pressures (habitat loss, bush meat, and human-lion conflict). Lions are majestic creatures we think of when we think of the quintessential African experience but as a whole, tourists take them for granted, not knowing the everyday and long term dangers they face as a species... But, back to the Mara.
The early mornings are typically action-packed. Temperatures are cooler, which means it's easier for predators to cover longer distances. Today was no exception, as we watched a lioness hunt a lone wildebeest. While typically lionesses will hunt cooperatively, using group strategies to trap or ambush their prey, this lioness decided to hunt on her own. It was a cat and mouse game, where she flattened her body as low as she could crouch and positioned herself downwind to avoid detection. Even with her stealthy moves and a very confused baby wildebeest that kept running towards the thickets and the river and back, she was unsuccessful, eventually giving up. Some photos below...
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| The beginning of her hunt. |
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| A topi photobombing a lioness. |
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| Crouching low, a lioness stalks a wildebeest. |
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| Giving up, she continued on. |
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| To get this photo, I hung my camera out of the safari car window. |
After a heart-pumping few hours constantly checking our camera settings in anticipation for a lion chase, we drove towards some picnic trees for a bush breakfast. One of the most iconic and unforgettable safari experiences, we often don't take the time to enjoy bush breakfasts as we often opt to take a packed breakfast in the car, not wanting to break for food. The breakfast setup was complete with coffee and tea, juices, an array of fresh seasonal fruits, baked beans, sausage, bacon, and a live omelette bar. The fact they can prepare the best omelette you'll ever have on a portable grill right in front of you always amazes me.
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| Bush breakfast. |
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| Handwashing station, food station, and a full service bush restaurant. |
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| Omelettes, banana bread, beans, and toast... What more do you need?! |
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| Why does this never taste as good at home? |
As we sat on stools, we overlooked the endless plains truly immersed in the wild. A bush breakfast isn't just about food. It's about connection—to nature, the rhythm of the land, and to a slower, more intentional way of being. Time pauses as you savor the beauty of the surrounding landscape and take a leg stretch, feet connecting with the Earth as the tall, dry grasses swish by your legs. Sometimes, wildlife even makes a guest appearance. At this morning's breakfast, we had a few marabou stork land nearby. Standing at up to five feet tall with a wingspan of around 10 feet, they're massive.
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| A marabou stork comes to check out breakfast. |
Following our bush breakfast (really more of a brunch), we slowly made our way back to camp stopping for the occasional photo, as in the case of two buffalo.
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| We didn't photograph this buffalo for long, as he was quite mean! |
Back at camp, it was time for the daily photography routine: download images, "x" images not in focus or where ears/eyes aren't looking towards the camera, and star images you think have potential for a quick edit.
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| The editing tent. |
Eyes tired after an hour+ of this process, I returned to the tent in the heat of the day to lounge on the recliners by the river, overlooking the resident of hippos.
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| Lounging on the daybed. |
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| Stools by the river. Talk about a view! |
After a late afternoon tea, we headed back out. While we did find two of the male lions we had been searching for, they were (of course) sleeping... Lions will typically sleep 16-20 hours per day! Stormy skies approaching once again, we were treated to one of the most vibrant rainbows I've seen.
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| Mom lookikng at the rainbow. |
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| Rainbow as shot on my camera. |
It seemed like an appropriate time to open a Tusker too.
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| Favorite time of the day while on safari... besides the morning light, of course! |
Wrapped in Maasai blankets for warmth, we bumped along back to camp, campfire waiting for us once more. After a local braai (the South African equivalent of a barbecue, though they'd disown you if you ever called it a barbecue while in Africa), we were told to return to the campfire.
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| Braai night featuring chicken, steak, potatoes, and vegetables. |
As it turns out, one of the other guests and photography instructors had planned a s'mores night, one year in the making! Unpacking multiple packages of marshmallows, graham crackers, and chocolate, we had the most unconventional but fun experience I've had around the fire in Africa, and it was a hoot seeing our local Maasai camp staff cook and eat s'mores for the first time! The consensus was that it's really sticky, and honestly, who wouldn't agree with that? I love sharing "firsts" with people, and I already know this is a story I'll tell for years to come.
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| Mom making s'mores in the Mara. |
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| Making marshmallows over the campfire. |
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| Pure sugar... and deliciousness! |
The following morning the cycle repeated: wake up, campfire, coffee.
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| Early morning campfire under a starlit sky. |
Once we set off, we quickly realized the morning was cold, even with a piping hot water bottle on our laps to warm our legs (an Africa staple when it's cold). Bundled in our Maasai blankets, mist, clinging to the dewy yellow grasses, we had a mission in mind: get to the Kenya/Tanzania border in hopes of seeing three cheetah brothers who were spotted (no pun intended) there yesterday.
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| Hot water bottle and a blanket for warmth. |
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| Safari ninja mode to keep warm! |
While tourists cannot travel freely across the border from the Masai Mara into the Serengeti, there is no physical barrier so the landscape transitions seamlessly between savannas, grasslands, and acacia-dotted plains with wildlife collecting passport stamps as they please. Almost immediately, we spotted them. We followed them as they traversed the landscape, eventually stopping to mark their territory at some trees (photos from the interactions below).
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| When we first found the cheetahs, they were on a mound by a slanted tree. |
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| One of the rare moments where both cheetahs were looking the same way. |
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| We followed the cheetahs as they moved along. |
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| A cheetah and an escarpment. |
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| A cheetah takes a moment to look up, sniffing. |
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| A cheetah marks its territory. |
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| Peekaboo! |
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Like many cats, cheetahs love climbing on things for a higher perspective.
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| Laying down for a nap. |
Once the rangers came to control the number of vehicles at the sighting, we left for another great bush breakfast, stopping briefly for an ostrich against a colorful background.
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| A lone ostrich among a herd of wildebeest. |
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| Breakfast set up! |
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| I don't know where the fruit is grown or imported from, but it's always delicious... especially the mango at this time of the year! |
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| The egg station is always a hit with travelers, and for good reason! |
On the way back to camp, we came across a massive lone elephant right at the side of the road. We stopped to observe him as he chomped on dry grasses and crossed the road right behind our vehicle.
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An elephant slowly makes its way across the road.
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| Stopping to observe us before continuing on. |
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| When wildlife is too close for a telephoto lens, I love experimenting with more abstract shots. |
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| It's all in the details! |
We also came across a lioness and her cub taking part in a comical tug of war where the lioness was trying to drag her wildebeest kill backwards into the shade while the cub was trying to drag the wildebeest kill forward because it was hungry. I can only imagine how annoyed the mom was!
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| Carcass tug of war. |
After afternoon tea and some time downloading images, we set back out in the rain, which had just started by the time we were loading up our vehicles. The amazing design of the safari vehicles allows for plastic covers to be rolled up or down at a moment's notice, though you obviously can't adjust the covers with predators present! Knowing where we left the cheetahs this morning, we drove back to the same location to try to find them, which we easily did.
For hours, we followed the cheetahs as they walked in the pouring rain, occasionally stopping at termite mounds for a better vantage point. They made their way back down the hill towards the Tanzania border where we had left them in the morning, and began hunting wildebeest. Compared to lions, cheetahs hunt very differently. Much less methodical and stealthy, cheetahs thrive in creating chaos, fanning out among the herd to create chaos in the hopes of singling out a weak link. Despite the herd numbering in the thousands, the cheetahs were ultimately unsuccessful and decided to take a nap in the middle of the road, rain still pounding down. Some photos of the incredible sighting, below.
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| Cheetahs in the pouring rain. |
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| Taking a break to observe the landscape. |
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| Cheetahs on the prowl. |
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A panorama to show how scattered the herds often are, coupled with the misty backdrop of Tanzania in the distance.
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| Slowly making their way towards Tanzania. |
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| A cheetah approaches the road, following the herd. |
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| A cheetah looks for a weak link. |
With the cheetahs now sleeping, we left in search of other wildlife. When so close to the border, however, you simply must stop for some touristy pictures!
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| Kenya/Tanzania border post. |
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| Mom and I on the Kenyan side of the border. |
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| Behind the Tanzania sign... technically we were in Tanzania for this photo as there are no fences! |
With the rest of the afternoon quiet, we wheeled back into camp exhausted from a long day on safari. The following morning was yet another day dedicated to the lions of the Mara. We found them just as the sun was rising, providing the best possible light to photograph them in. Near the river less than 10 minutes from camp, we spent all morning with them as they played and nuzzled. Of all our lion sightings in the Mara, this one was my favorite! Photos below...
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| Lions walk right past one of our camp's cars. |
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| Walking as a group, but of course it's too much to ask them all to look the same way at once! |
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| Perfectly in sync... |
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Golden hour and a lion cub.
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| Golden hour and a lioness. |
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| A lion cub scratches its claws on a tree trunk. |
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| A lion cub sharpens its claws. |
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| Lioness close up. |
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| My favorite cub of the pride stalking its siblings. |
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| Lion cubs playing on a sign by the river. |
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| I love a good lion nuzzle! |
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| On the move again... |
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| ...Only to plop. |
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| ...And then play again. |
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| Cubs and the Mara River. |
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| Lion cub and the Mara. |
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| Standing on the sign... Such a troublemaker! |
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| "Hey you guys? How do I get down?" |
I especially loved this sweet sequence...
After returning to camp after a quiet late morning following our lion encounter, we once again set out after tea time. We came across the same lions with a zebra kill at the side of the road and observed them for awhile before noticing a big, male lion on the other side of the river.
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| Taking a break from eating. |
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| A zebra kill on the side of the road meant good visibility for the most part... those stray grasses were still annoying! |
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| A cub stares at the car. |
By now, we had been trying to see him active for days with no luck. Whenever we found him, he was sleeping... right near our bush breakfast site, near the river, or today's location on the opposite side of the river, which meant he had to actually swim in the river to get to the other side. Hoping he'd cross back because the lions had a kill on our side of the river, we waited, and we waited, and we waited. Hours passed, cars came and went, and nothing happened. We left him in time to find a nice tree for a sunset, followed by another campfire at camp when we returning in the evening.
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| Peninsula sunset. |
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| Sometimes the sunset gets even prettier after the sun actually goes down! |
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| Campfire to end another great day. |
The following morning was the quietest yet, so much so that I finished an audiobook in nearly one sitting! While I don't usually listen to anything while on safari, opting to instead immerse myself in the sounds of nature, the gentle hum of the engine and vibration of the car were putting me to sleep, and listening to a book was the only thing I could think of to keep me awake! Towards the end of our morning drive, we did find a sole male lion against the beautiful escarpment of Tanzania in the background.
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| A lion with Tanzania in the far distance. |
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| Closeup. |
On the way back to camp, we even briefly came across a male lion awake (though a different one). He had a wildebeest kill, and kept dragging it towards our car. It was incredible to see the amount of exertion it takes just to drag it, with his chest heaving up and down in shallowed breaths.
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| Lion with a kill. |
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| Slowly dragging his kill closer to the road. |
After a short time at camp, I went to inspect the new Ritz Carlton Masai Mara property, an impromptu work visit that I arranged with a few days' notice. This meant that our afternoon at camp was cut extremely short and after a quick bucket shower and afternoon tea, it was time to head out again. The afternoon was still with lions sleeping, the cheetahs back in Tanzania, and the resident leopard nowhere to be found. We didn't photograph much, other than the occasional ostrich and another classic Kenyan sunset.
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| A lone ostrich near the border. |
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| My favorite African sunset of the trip. |
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| Wide angle shot to put everything into perspective. |
As I always say, after a quiet day on safari, the next day is bound to be exceptional. Sure enough, my hypothesis remained true as we came across a lion pride at first light once again. We spent the greater half of a morning observing the cubs play with tangled mud and leaves, lionesses stalking birds, and lots of wrestling.
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| Rueben searching for lions after finding their footprints. |
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| A lion cub plays with muddy leaves. |
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| A lioness stalks birds by the water. |
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| A lion cub stalks one of its siblings. |
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| Time to wrestle! |
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| Family play time. |
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| Two lionesses play, scaring the birds with their wrestling. |
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| There was a lot of wrestling this morning! |
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| Eventually, all the cubs had their own chew toy as it kept breaking apart as they chased one another. |
Eventually, it was time to bid the pride farewell as we needed to make the long trek to our "Out of Africa" bush breakfast, one of the highlights of any trip to Kenya. Along the way, we checked in on the herd's size and direction (and we determined we'd probably wouldn't see a crossing on this trip), and we even came across a waterbuck born hours before we saw them.
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| Zebras among the wildebeest. |
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| Close up of the herd. |
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| Mom and baby waterbuck. |
We drove up a small hill and rounded the corner to a jaw-dropping panoramic view of the Masai Mara complete with one communal table (as opposed to our stools and folding tables) and a live omelette bar.
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| Our final bush breakfast set up. |
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| An iconic viewpoint in the Mara, breakfast was set up with panoramic views. |
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| Brekkie time! |
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| The jaw-dropping view from breakfast. |
We really took the time to soak in one last bush breakfast, savoring every second of the incredible week we've had to date. After taking some group photos and videos, we slowly made our way back to camp.
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| Group photo. |
Along the way, we came across a male ostrich courting two ladies, giraffes, and a small herd of elephants.
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| Male ostrich. |
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| A lone giraffe. |
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| Cow and calf. |
By the time we arrived back at camp, I was due for another bucket shower, which I'd still take over a normal shower any day of the week. So, how does it work? You tell the camp staff what time you'd like to take your shower and, at the agreed upon time, they arrive with either cold water (if you requested a cold shower) or hot water (which they've boiled if you requested a hot shower). Using a rope system, they lower the "master" bucket down, pouring the water into the top. One person holds the bottom of the "master" bucket while the other pulls the rope back up to your preferred height (you often need to model below the bucket so they can get it just right, as they repeat this process anytime you want to shower!) When you give them the "OK", they tie the rope and you're all set. Pro tip: if you have long hair, order a double shower for double the water!
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| Setting up the bucket shower by lowering the container. |
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| The shower was then ready! |
Feeling refreshed, we went back to the media tent for some editing before an incredible lunch... bush style pizza! Yes, they even had a pizza oven. It was a great system where camp staff laid out toppings and you went down the line telling them what you wanted. They stacked the pizzas in the portable oven and, a few minutes later, your pizza was ready.
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| Pizza station! |
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| Portable pizza oven. |
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| Time to select toppings... |
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| ...and put the pizza in the oven. |
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| Honestly, who needs CPK pizza?! Bush pizza is way better. |
After a last quiet afternoon game drive, we had a photoshoot with the Maasai staff. As the sun set over the Mara River and sunset turned to dusk, we were able to photograph with the soft glow of the fire illuminating the intricate beadwork.
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| The camp staff roasted a goat and posed for photos. |
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| I love all the intricate details of Maasai beading. It's such a vibrant culture, literally and figuratively. |
Once we were done, the Maasai male staff came out, circling around us chanting a prayer in Maa. It was a beautiful moment that brought me goosebumps.
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| Giving us a Maasai blessing before dinner. |
On our last morning, we drank our coffee under the Milky Way once more. Completely removed from light pollution, you can see it with your naked eye, and that's one of the things I most look forward to about returning to Africa.
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| Milky Way as shot on my iPhone. |
We said "see you later" to the camp staff, as we already knew it wasn't a "goodbye". It always amazes me how you come into camp shaking hands, and leave crying and hugging. I think that just goes to show the incredible hospitality and genuine warmth of the people, who are so excited to share their culture with you.
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| Group hug! |
On our way to the airstrip, we thought we'd check to see if we could find the male lion active. Already, I had joked that we'd see him on the way to the airstrip on our last day. Sure enough, we did. Our incredible guide spotted him at quite some distance and we patiently waited as he inched closer and closer.
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| Male lion with our cars for perspective. Finally! |
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| A male lion in the morning light. |
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| Look at that beautiful, dark mane! |
He zig-zagged towards the thickets, where we lost him, but we found lionesses nearby, following them as the hot air balloons rose.
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| A lioness heads towards the others, which were quite some distance away. |
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| Like clockwork, the balloons rose over the Mara. |
We had one last adventure, Mad-Maxxing our way through thick, slushy mud, tires literally giving us a mud bath, to find a lioness who had just made a kill. It was a thrilling few minutes of revving the engine and drifting from side to side as we traversed the muddy road from the night's rain. I still feel bad for whoever needed to wash the car after, though!
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| Very dirty safari car... |
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| ...oops! |
After a quick breakfast near the airstrip, it was time to board our flight to Amboseli, bidding the rest of the group farewell. It was a fun guessing game to see which airline would come first... would it be Mombasa Air? Safari Link? Air Kenya?
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| A plane comes in for a landing. It amazes me how quiet they are and how they seem to appear out of nowhere. |
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| Our Mombasa Air plane that we took to Amboseli. |
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| Close up of our plane. |
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| Taking off for Amboseli! |
As they often do, our plane stopped once to pick up passengers after less than five minutes in the air before flying direct from there to Amboseli. As we approached, we watched how the landscape changed from swamp to lake bed, hundreds of dust devils swirling in anticipation. In the bleak, dusty landscape on the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro lies an ecological masterpiece which the Maasai call "Embosel"—a salty, dusty open plain. Today, Amboseli is Kenya's third most popular park though not frequently visited on a first time trip to Kenya. The permanent swamps of Enkongo, Narok, and Olokenya create a marshy belt across the middle of the park, which are centers for elephants, which Amboseli is famously known for. Within the ecosystem, there's also a dry lake bed and salt flats. Surrounding that are beautiful acacia tortillis woodlands and grassy savannas that attract herds of wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle alongside the famed elephants.
Upon arrival, we met our guide and put on our buffs (I always recommend traveling with one because of the dust, and even more so in Amboseli. I've never experienced dust like this!) Less than ten minutes after leaving the airstrip, we came across one of the famous big tuskers of Amboseli, slowly walking towards us.
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| Amboseli airstrip. |
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| Our car, which was specially adapted to photographers with the large opening. |
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At the airstrip, there were some signs showing it's a designated UNESCO site and sharing some additional information about the park and its wildlife and ecosystem.
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| Dusty safari ninja mode activated. |
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| A big tusker walks towards us. |
After snapping some photos, we headed to camp where we checked into our room, got oriented with the property, and had a delicious buffet lunch. As luck would have it, we found out we were the only two guests in camp for the duration of our stay, which has since become perhaps the most magical experience we've had in Africa. How often do you get a full camp just to yourselves?! Camp tour below...
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| When you enter the lodge, you walk through this open-air dining room, lounge, bar, and gift shop. |
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| You then walk down a cobbled pathway to the rooms. |
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Inside of our room complete with canvas walls, which are my favorite!
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| View of Mount Kilimanjaro from the room. |
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| Outdoor deck overlooking Mount Kilimanjaro, which was hiding when I took this photo. |
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| Lounge area overlooking Mount Kilimanjaro. |
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| Camfire area overlooking the outdoor dining area and the main part of the lodge. |
In the afternoon, we set off towards the national park, expediting our way through the park gate. We headed towards the marsh area where we found a herd of easily over 50 elephants... the most I've seen at any one given time. I couldn't help myself and I kept exclaiming in wonder, "There's so many of them!" To say I was in my happy place in that moment would be an understatement. No matter how many times I've been, Africa always seems to put on a show. One of the thrills of being on safari is that each day is different and this sighting alone has gone down as top ten of all time in my books for the sheer number of elephants bunched together.
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| Elephants in the swamp. |
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| One herd of elephant walks towards the rest. |
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| Walking towards the herd. |
As we exited the park before sunset (you need to leave by a certain time in accordance with the park rules), we detoured through the camp's private conservancy on our way back. We came across a family of giraffes, which perfectly cooperated with the sunset... even the babies!
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| A baby giraffe walks towards the sunset. |
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| One of the adult giraffes walks towards the sunset. |
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| This is what I always think of when I say "Africa". |
We passed a hyena settling down for the night before another dinner under the starry night sky.
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| Staring contest with a hyena. |
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| Milky Way as seen on my phone. |
In the morning, we returned to the camp's private conservancy on our way to the national park to see what we could find. We came across the same giraffe family as a hot air balloon rose in the early morning dawn, Kilimanjaro barely peeking out in the distance.
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| A giraffe and Mount Kilimanjaro. |
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| The hot air balloon was flying really low and ended up scaring the giraffes. |
On our way to the national park gate, we came across two motorcyclists on the side of the road, pointing to the right. Our guide translated that there were lions, so of course we went. It turned out that the lions were cheetahs... a whole family of them! As the sun rose, the golden light illuminated the family of five as the cubs chased eachother.
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| The cheetah family chased eachother in the dust as the sun rose... a magical moment. |
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With bloodied faces, it's likely they had just recently eaten.
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A cheetah watches as the safari cars race in to the sighting.
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| Posing nicely for a portrait. |
At one point, a cub picked up a cardboard box, which is the sad reality of wildlife living so close to populated areas in Africa.
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| A cheetah with a cardboard box as the clouds roll in over Mount Kilimanjaro. |
All the while, I hung out of the safari car door, flattening myself to the dusty mattress and hanging on to the driver seat while we continually repositioned to get ahead of the cheetahs, anticipating their next move.
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| Cheetah portrait. |
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Hanging out of a car door allows for incredible low angle opportunities.
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| Running right towards us! |
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| Holding my breath, this cheetah looked right at us as it walked on by. |
...Don't forget the behind-the-scenes of it all!
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| Just a girl hanging out a car door... |
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| Cell phone view of the car door that could roll up and a cheetah. At one point, the cheetah was literally right in front of me. |
After a heart pounding cheetah experience (where, at one point, a cheetah came within touching distance of the car as I held my breath not wanting to move or make a sound), we received a call that Craig had been located. Craig is one of the most iconic super tuskers in all of Africa, known for his massive tusks that nearly touch the ground. Super tuskers like Craig (where the tusks weigh over 100 pounds each!) are genetically rate, and he's become a powerful symbol of anti-poaching efforts as well as a favorite among wildlife photographers. He roams freely in Amboseli and is an advanced age for a wild elephant at approximately 53 years old.
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| Driving to see Craig. |
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| Sitting on the mattress observing Craig. |
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| Side view of Craig for a sense of scale... he is MASSIVE! |
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| Mom and Craig. |
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| Craig as shot on the iPhone. |
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| Close up of Craig. |
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| When Craig is too close so you have to take abstract photos and creatively crop photos with the camera. |
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| iPhone pic! |
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| My favorite photo I took of Craig. |
We had our breakfast in the car with Craig beside us, which is the ultimate way to take your breakfast!
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| Smoothie with Craig! |
In the afternoon, we decided to remain at the camp as we never get to enjoy the property. I edited pictures, we relaxed, and we talked with the camp staff by the fire.
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| Campfire with Mount Kilimanjaro in the distance. |
We had an incredible dinner of shiitake mushroom potstickers, Thai yellow curry with shrimp, and a chocolate cake. Out of all my trips to Africa, this was definitely the best food I've ever had, and I was amazed by the chef's Asian influence in his dishes.
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| The shiitake mushroom dumplings were to die for. |
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| Yellow curry with shrimp. |
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| Chocolate cake. |
The following morning we headed straight to Amboseli's lake bed, but not before stopping to photograph a herd of elephants with Kilimanjaro in the background!
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| Elephants and Mount Kilimanjaro. |
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| Walking perfectly in a line. |
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| The elephants took a break to dust themselves before continuing grazing. |
From where we were staying, the lake bed was about 90 minutes away, and that's without wildlife detours of course. The lake bed is a large, seasonal dry lake typically covered with a white crust of salt and minerals.
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| Close up of the dried lake bed. |
Though it appears barren for most of the year, it plays a critical ecological role as a grazing ground and wildlife corridor. It's an otherworldly landscape that is vast, flat, and seemingly endless. The cracked, pale earth stretches to the horizon and glints in the sun tricking your eye into thinking you see water. Towering above it all is Mount Kilimanjaro, often capped with snow, looming in the distance as if it were painted. The stark flatness of the lake bed makes the mountain seem even more immense and dramatic. Wildlife appears out of nowhere, going as quickly as they appeared. Below are some of the highlights.
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| A giraffe runs in front of Mount Kilimanjaro. |
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| We raced giraffes... They won. |
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| Staring contest with this beauty. |
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| Slowly walking towards us. |
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| I loved how they walked perfectly in one line! |
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| Probably my favorite photograph from the lake bed. |
On the way back towards camp, we drove through one of the marsh areas, where we found a small herd of elephants. While I was observing one with criss-crossed tusks, my eye fell upon a small, dark grey bundle... there was a baby elephant. As it got closer, we noticed that the umbilical cord was still attached. Come to find out, it was born a mere hours before. Cautiously, the baby followed mom as it crossed the road right behind our car, stumbling over the dirt as it found its footing. Heart pounding, breath held, I locked eyes with the cow (female elephant) not daring to move as she protectively turned around to guard her calf as it stumbled towards her.
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| I have never seen an elephant with criss crossed tusks like this one. |
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| Detailed shot of the tusks. |
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| Mom and baby cautiously emerging. |
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| The momma elephant smelled before approaching with the baby. |
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| Peekaboo! Look at those sleepy newborn eyes... |
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| Cautiously following its mother. |
Completely amazed and humbled, this has since become one of my top three sightings in my many trips to Africa. Because you simply can't top the days we had in Amboseli, we chose another leisurely afternoon at our camp. After another incredible lunch of elephant bread, spring rolls, lasagna, and more, I did something I never do. I got a massage.
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| Elephant shaped bread. |
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| This rice paper veggie spring roll with sweet chili sauce was amazing. |
In all my years of coming to Africa, I've always brushed aside the idea of a massage. I'm often too tired, or too busy editing photos, or not wanting to miss out on what's happening in the bush. On this trip, the early starts and long days got to me and, being the only ones in camp, I figured, why not? Anna set the massage table up in our room overlooking the deck and Mount Kilimanjaro. For an hour, I had the most incredible back massage I've ever had anywhere in the world. Days of carrying my 30+ pounds of camera gear and over nine hours of bumping in a safari car per day, it really was the perfect ending to an incredible trip.
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| Massage table in the room. |
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| Post massage happiness. |
Completely relaxed, we went to the campfire for one last Tusker, toasting to our incredible journey.
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| Bar area of our lodge. |
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| One final Tusker and snack. |
With one last delicious meal under our belts (photos below), we went to bed early to prepare for our very long journey home.
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| Beetroot tartare. |
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| Fish with a yellow curry sauce. |
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| Lemon tart. |
We rose early, eating one last batch of elephant shaped cookies and downing coffee for a caffeine fix.
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| Elephant shaped cookies. |
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| Cookies and coffee... the perfect start to the day! |
Cameras tucked away because of the dust, I relied on my phone to snap a few last photos as we made our way back through the swampy area to the airstrip. Pro tip: Don’t put all your cameras away until you actually get to the airstrip. We passed beautiful swamp areas at sunrise, countless elephants, buffalos, giraffes, impalas, various birds, and this sweet baboon duo.
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| Baboon and its baby. |
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| Swamp area at sunrise. |
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| Final, narrow stretch to the airstrip. |
We capped off our time in Amboseli with a bush breakfast with our incredible guide Titus before boarding our flight to Nairobi (after a one-hour runway delay).
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| Bush picnic! |
Upon arrival in Nairobi, we went straight to the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, which I still can't believe I had never visited in my prior trips to Kenya. Founded in 1977 by Dr. Dame Daphne Sheldrick in memory of her late husband, famous naturalist and founding warden of Tsavo East National Park David Leslie William Sheldrick, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust claims a rich and deeply rooted family history in wildlife and conservation. As one of Africa's oldest wildlife charities and a leading conservation organization, the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is best known for their work to protect elephants. The public is able to visit the nursery, where an orphan's journey begins, every day from 11am-12pm. During the hour visit, rangers introduce every elephant in their care, tell you the stories of how and where they were rescued, and tell you about elephant conservation as a whole. It's a fun and informative hour where the elephants drink their formula, take mud baths, and trumpet around.
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| Sheldrick Wildlife Trust keepers wait for the elephants. |
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| The elephants ran down the hill... |
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| ...And straight for their formula! |
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| The elephants grabbed the bottles and held the bottles themselves, which was adorable. |
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| The smallest elephant is their newest addition. |
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| I always appreciate an eye close up! |
Following our time at Sheldrick, we made a brief stop at the Giraffe Center which, in comparison, felt a lot more "touristy". Focused on protecting the endangered Rothschild's giraffe, it offers visitors a chance to feed giraffes from a raised platform. Established in 1979 by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, the center has bred and reintroduced giraffes into Kenya's national parks.
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| Entrance to the Giraffe Center. |
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| I just had to laugh at this sign! |
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| Feeding the giraffes! |
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| Abstract close up. |
Before making our way towards the international airport, we visited a few different curio shops in search of a beaded dog collar. Since the first time I visited Nairobi, the number of shops has grown exponentially. Everywhere you turn, there's a shop. Gone are the days where you could bargain everywhere (though this is still very much a part of the local customs). Now, tourists seem to pay the prices as set by the shops, which means all the curios are triple or quadruple what they should actually be. After a visit to three separate crafts markets, we finally found one where we were able to bargain, and we came away with some fun goodies.
Exhausted, we arrived at the airport hotel in the afternoon. I cannot say this enough: you will want a day room! After checking into our room, we had a lovely late lunch where I stayed true to my tradition of ordering the fried tilapia, something I get every single time I stay at the Four Points. A new addition this year, I also had an iced coffee that definitely hit the spot!
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| My much loved tilapia, which always hits the spot. |
By the time lunch was finished, we only had a few hours to shower, repack, and relax. In the early evening, we boarded the hotel shuttle bound for the airport, located just a few minutes away. Compared to last time (which was super chaotic with very long lines), the airport seemed almost deserted. We went through luggage screenings, immigration, and security quickly, and before we knew it we were at the lounge, but not before some last minute shopping! The way home to LA was much less eventful. I edited photos, slept, and before we knew it, we were home.
Thanks for following along with our adventures. As always, follow my Instagram @elissatitle for photos and stay tuned for more!
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