Santa Cruz: The Highlands and Tortoises

Friday the 13th! Today we said farewell to the Tip Top IV. We took the zodiacs to Santa Cruz, where we took off our bright red life jackets one more time. Before we disembarked, we had taken a short excursion to Las Bachas, where the sun was rising.

Sunrise over Las Bachas.

Morning light hitting the rocks along the shore.

As the sun started to rise, the clouds were pastel pinks and blues.

This white sand beach had a small lagoon where flamingoes and coastal birds are occasionally seen. We observed two pastel pink flamingoes walking and eating. Flamingoes' knees bend the opposite direction of ours, so it's interesting to watch them move around. This beach is a favorite nesting area for sea turtles and we even saw where the nests were. Martin spotted fresh sea turtle tracks, showing that a sea turtle had laid eggs there in the night. When it's time for the sea turtle eggs to hatch, the boats are no longer able to dock in that bay as the lights confuse the babies and negatively impact their journey to sea.

A perfect reflection!

Flamingo looking for food.

While everyone was looking at the flamingoes, I was looking at the frigate bird right above my head, perched on this small branch.

While everyone was looking at the flamingoes, I was looking at the frigate bird. Then, this happened! Timing is everything.

Following the morning landing, we disembarked the yacht for the last time. We drove across town to Puerto Ayora, where we previously spent time for the Charles Darwin Research Station. We visited two enormous pit craters, referred to by geologists as collapse craters. The landscape formed due to magma flowing until the volcanic activity stopped. When the liquid rock cooled down and contracted, unstable zones were left. Eventually, the zones collapsed and created the craters (two on either side of the highway). These craters are similar to our sink holes at home in the sense that liquid makes the land collapse. At home, water and sewage often cause collapse but water is not the cause here.

One of the craters we visited.

The forest in the highlands, one of the seven vegetation zones on the island, is known for different species of Darwin's finches, the Vermillian flycatcher, and the Galapagos flycatcher. While the adult male Vermillian flycatcher is red, the female is less colorful with a yellow-white breast. Compared to the Vermillian flycatcher, the Galapagos flycatcher is slightly larger. It has a brown head and a yellowish breast.



Hiking in the highlands was beautiful. The ground was covered in neon green plants which probably looked so bright due to the overcast weather and due to the fact that we've been around a lot of dirt and sand. Moss hung off trees almost creating a canopy effect. . . It felt like I was in the jungle. We saw plants used to make coffee, invasive species of plants, and also a plant that tasted like a pepperoni. Literally.

Macro shot of a tree branch.

A canopy of moss.

Following our short morning hike, we went to El Chato Ranch, a privately owned ecological reserve. While the farm is privately owned, the owners make money off the tourists who go there to see tortoises in the wild. However, the family who owns the farm is not allowed to manipulate the tortoises to stay. The tortoises don't live in captivity, as they are able to come and go as they please. The farm sparked a whole conversation about conservation vs. ecotourism as people often confuse the two. Essentially, ecotourism is a triangle.



The tortoise is there naturally but is seen as a pest or as food to the local. The local kills tortoises or poisons them until the tourist comes into the picture. The tourist visits the Galapagos, searching for the tortoises that aren't there because farmers chased them away. The tourist, not knowing that the farmers chased the tortoises away, asks the farmer where to find them. The farmer offers the tourist a trip to where the tortoises are. Of course, the farmer expects payment. The tourist willingly pays to see the tortoises and when the farmer realizes he can profit from this, he stops killing and poisoning the tortoises so he can profit from it. According to Martin, ecotourism here is rare but common in places like Costa Rica. I'm wondering whether or not this is true, since I'm sure the farm we were at once saw the tortoises as pests.

Entering El Chato Ranch.

Tortoise yawn!

Tortoises aren't polite eaters. . .

Woodpecker finch at El Chato Ranch.

After we saw the tortoises, we walked through lava tunnels on the same property. These are some of the largest known lava tunnels in the Galapagos. The tunnel was slightly taller than I am (5 feet 8 inches) and was illuminated by the occasional light. I wasn't expecting to see any animals in the tunnels, but we managed to see two owls. The lava tunnels were definitely a highlight for me!

Our guide took us through the exit. Rebel.

Inside the lava tunnels.

We had lunch at a local restaurant, which was tucked away into the highlands. There was a beautiful, tall tree with three colorful hammocks and a bench along the tree trunk. The patio had a panoramic view of the trees. . . It felt like we were in a rainforest. One of my favorite things to eat here has been the plantain chips and this restaurant certainly didn't disappoint!

Our lunch spot.

Plantain chips!

After lunch we went to a second tortoise location to see a different species. We took a short hike until we saw two tortoises, one of which was biting the other's tail. We kept waiting for something to happen, but nothing did. Apparently, tortoises can't hear very well but they can sense vibrations on the ground so they knew we were there. We took one last super short walk to a viewpoint on a hill that overlooked several islands, the hills, and the beach below.

Looking out towards the ocean.

Finally, we headed back to the hotel where we had some free time.

That's all for now... Stay tuned for more Galapagos adventures. Also, be sure to hit the subscribe button to be notified of new posts, as there is sometimes unreliable internet! Follow my instagram @elissatitle for more photography posts.