The Early Bird Gets the Worm

What do you do when you're awake at 4:30am? Some would say stay in bed, but others like myself would want to beat the crowds. Crowded places are horrible for taking photographs and require a lot of patience, but when you're up this early in the morning... you can get your shot in a matter of seconds. Yesterday afternoon, I wanted to take a photograph of the bridge by our ryokan but there were too many people crossing it. This morning, I was able to go back and take a photograph in the early morning light.

Bridge over a small stream by the ryokan

After a few quick photographs, I began making my way down to the torii gate to capture it in the early morning light. As we passed by our ryokan, I stopped for a quick photograph. Iwaso ryokan has seen over 160 years of history in Miyajima. After the foundation of the inn, it became very popular with overnight guests and it was rebuilt as a modern Japanese style hotel after the Meiji era (1868-1912).

Iwaso ryokan at Miyajima

Since last night, the tide at the torii gate had disappeared once more. Now at low tide, there was not a perfect reflection. At high tide, the torii rises 50 feet above the water, appearing to levitate when reflected in the still waters of the bay. By now it was about 5:30 in the morning and there were still no people. At golden hour, the torii appears even more orange.

Torii gate in the morning light

Since the tide was low, I was able to walk down to the floor of the bay (usually completely covered with water) to get different perspectives of the torii. From the ground level, the torii is overwhelming in size. With only a few puddles of water left, there wasn't a perfect reflection but it was still enough to be able to see the top of the torii reflected perfectly in the water below.

Torii gate from the ground

After about 30 minutes, the tourists started to come and I was no longer alone with the torii. I came at the perfect time, being able to photograph the torii with zero people in the way. As the people started coming down to where I was photographing, I left to head back for breakfast. After a quick meal, it was time to go back outside. By now, the tide was coming in so I went to photograph the torii yet again. Although it wasn't high tide (the water usually rises to the top of the light markings on the torii), it was still slightly reflected in the water. Fun fact: each main pillar is about 32 feet in circumference!

Torii with the tide coming in

Miyajima is a haven for Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. Perhaps the most striking of these holy places is the Itsukushima Shrine, A UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here at the shrine, Bugaku is practiced. In the Heian period, Taira no Kiyomori built the edifice we see today. It's said that ancient court dances (bugaku) began to be performed when Kyomori introduced them from Shitennōji Temple in Osaka. In the later years, the Ōuchi, Mōri and Asano clans worshipped at the shrine and the bugaku dances have been passed on to the present day.

Main shrine of Itsukushima where Ichikishimahime-no-mikoto, Tagorihime-no-mikoto, and Tagitsuhime-no-mikoto are enshrined

Another shrine in the temple

Hallway leading to the Daikoku Shrine, the deity of matchmaking

Looking back to the other hallways

View of the torii from inside the temple. At high tide, the entire temple sits on water.

Donated sake bottles lining the temple

After exiting the temple, it was time to go back to Hiroshima (in order to take the shinkansen back to Kyoto).  After a few last photographs around the small island, we boarded the ferry back to the mainland.

Shops lining the street at Miyajima

View from the ferry

On the way back to Hiroshima, we stopped at a department store called Sogo. In Japan, the basement level of department stores is all food. There are food vendors that sell already made food as well as markets where people can buy groceries. As we were taking the train back to Kyoto around lunch time, we did some shopping. Below is our picnic lunch on the train!

Honey-soy glazed fried chicken, hot dog bun, pastry with cream, ohagi and kinako, with coffee!

We originally had plans to eat out at a sukiyaki restaurant but after the crowds at Miyajima, I suggested we cancel. Instead, we returned to our beloved sushi chef Chisaki-san for even more sushi! Of course, I had to take food pics (only a few are pictured this time... I was too busy eating)! Hope these photographs don't make you too hungry...

Squid and clam with mustard sauce

Golden eye red snapper (kinmedai), bonito, tai, and chu toro sashimi

A special treat from Chisaki-san... anago (eel) tempura with shiso leaf

Shrimp

Clam

Cooked tai

Horse mackerel

 

Ikura (salmon egg)

Uni (sea urchin)

More eel!

Green tea, vanilla bean, and black sesame ice cream

That's all for now... Stay tuned for more Japanese adventures. Be sure to hit the subscribe button to be notified of new posts, as there is a time difference and sometimes unreliable internet!