Third Time's the Charm: Exploring Ancient Egypt

You know the saying "third time is the charm"? Well, in this case it definitely was. We have been trying to get to Egypt for years and every time we had a trip planned, some global event just had to happen. First, it was COVID and the trip got cancelled. Then, it was October 7 and the trip got cancelled again. We said we'd try to get to Egypt one more time and, if by the third time it got cancelled yet again, we'd give up and agree it just wasn't meant to be on our travel bingo card. As it turns out, the third time was indeed the charm. 

We arrived in Cairo very late at night, zooming along the empty highways and city streets until reaching our hotel at nearly 2 AM. Plopping into bed after a quick shower, we had just a few hours of sleep before we were up at 7:30 AM to begin our jam-packed day. Opening the blinds, we got our first glimpse of the Nile River as the sun was rising. 

After a quick breakfast, it was time to beat Cairo's notoriously bad traffic to make our way towards the newly opened Grand Egyptian Museum. Following over two decades of construction and various delays, the Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) officially opened to the public on November 1, 2025 marking the debut of the world's largest archaeological museum dedicated to a single civilization. 

First glimpse of the GEM. This is a monument dedicated to Japan, in honor of their involvement with the financing and building of the museum.

The idea for the museum dates back to 1992 when Egypt sought a modern space to relieve overcrowding at the Egyptian Museum and to better preserve its antiquities. An international architecture competition was held in 2002, which was won by the Dublin based firm Heneghan Peng Architects. Construction then began in 2005 but faced many delays with political unrest, funding challenges and of course COVID. After several phased openings, the museum officially opened to the public in full with a grand celebration live streamed to the world. Some of the many highlights include the colossal statue of Ramesses II which dominates the museum's entrance hall, the ancient solar boat of King Khufu, and the complete collection of Tutankhamun's treasures displayed for the first time since their initial discovery in the 1920s. The visitor experience is chronological with galleries that guide guests through the development of ancient Egyptian society, religion, kingship, and daily life. A dramatic grand staircase lined with statues leads to the upper galleries where, at the top, glass walls frame panoramic views of the Pyramids of Giza. Housing over 100,000 artifacts, the museum is truly extraordinary. Below are some photos. 

The world's first suspended obelisk.

Entering the main hall.

Looking towards the entrance from the inside.

Ancient solar boats.

Ascending via the moving walkway.

View of the pyramids from the top floor.

Part of King Tut's collection.

King Tut's famous gold mask.

Following our hours long visit to the GEM, we had lunch at a local restaurant in the Khan el-Khalili bazar. 

By the time we were done with lunch, it was 3 PM and we were exhausted from a terrible combination of lack of sleep and jet lag. After a quick site inspection of a nearby hotel (I incorporated some work into this trip), we went back to the hotel to have a relaxing evening. For dinner, we ate by the pool as the sun set over the Nile. 

It's customary to take a small sip of coffee followed by a small bite of date for sweetness.

The following day, we woke up to stockings on our door -- it was Christmas Day in Cairo! Christmas 2025 will forever go down in the books as one of the best holidays ever. Why? Well, keep reading... 

This was waiting in our room!

Christmas decorations at the hotel.

At breakfast, we became very friendly with our waiter (as we tend to do) and suddenly, plates of Egyptian food kept appearing at our table. We tried ful which became a quick favorite of ours -- a delicious dish made from slow-cooked fava beans then dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, cumin, and chili. Accompanied by fresh bread and the Egyptian version of hash browns, it was a satisfying way to start our day. 

Then, fateer appeared at our table -- an incredible Egyptian pastry drenched in homemade tahini and molasses. 

Now incredibly full, it was finally time to get ready for our once-in-a-lifetime experience at Giza... But not before a quick photo op! 

Geographically speaking, Giza sits on the west bank of the Nile just across the river from Cairo. It's technically its own city, but with the way the cities are laid out, it feels like it is part of Greater Cairo. Ancient Egyptians chose Giza because of its location on the west bank; the west symbolized the land of the dead, where the sun sets. If you tell anyone you're visiting Giza, they automatically think of the three pyramids and the Sphinx. But what most people don't know is that a select few people can obtain very special access to one of these iconic sites. 

Rolling up to the entrance, we made our way to the VIP private visits lounge. Because you otherwise need to take a hop on hop off style bus to navigate between the entrance and the various pyramids and look out points, some travelers opt to hire a 2-hour private golf cart to avoid long waits and sometimes full buses. We were in the lounge for a very different reason: private access to the iconic Sphinx's paws. 

When our golf cart was ready, we were carted away in the blistering cold morning, wind whipping at our face and penetrating our thin long sleeve shirts; we were prepared for warmer weather like the previous day and were not prepared with jackets. Teeth chattering and hands numb with the cold, we inched closer and closer to the Sphinx. When you visit the Sphinx, most people view the Sphinx from an elevated platform on the side (see below). 

... But not us! The golf cart dropped us off on the opposite side of the Sphinx where guards were waiting by a wide, iron gate. They led us down a long, wooden pathway with occasional steps. 

Down and down we went until we could go down no further; we were at the ground level staring up at the "Father of Terror", the Great Sphinx of Giza. In the morning mist, the Sphinx took on a whole new mystery; you couldn't see the iconic pyramids behind it, which gave it an even more incredible sense of scale. For one-hour, we were completely alone with onlookers above staring down at us in envy and bewilderment. Being at the ground level, we were able to walk around the entirety of the Sphinx, looking at it from different angles that few travelers ever get to see. We saw the monstrosity of its paws, the way its lion tail flicked up, the hole underneath the back of the Sphinx that people hear about but never see, and the incredible slab of hieroglyphs in between its paws that made ancient explorers believe there was once two Sphinxes because two were depicted on the top of the slab. I lost track of how many times we said "wow" or "this is amazing" during our one-hour there. 

The hole under the Sphinx that few people see!

At the end of our hour, we continued on to the Pyramids of Giza. Built on a desert plateau, the funerary Great Pyramid of Cheops (or Khufu) is the oldest and the largest in the world, built around 2500 BC with 2.3 million limestone blocks moved by a force of 20,000 men. The two smaller pyramids belonged to Khufu's son and grandson; the Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren) was built by Khufu's son and is a smaller pyramid built on higher ground which gives it the impression of a larger size and the Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus) was built by Khafre's son Menkaure and is the smallest of the three. 

From Giza, we drove onward to Saqqara. Saqqara is where Egyptian pyramid history really began. It's where Egypt's first capital of Memphis was and the city was used for burials for over 3,000 years. Ancient hieroglyphs here, particularly the "Pyramid Texts" found inside the 5th and 6th Dynasty pyramids are the oldest known religious texts designed to guide pharaohs to the afterlife. Today, the pyramids look like low, ruined mounds, but inside the pyramids are extraordinary. 

I descended the steep staircase into Teti's pyramid, ducking my head due to the extremely low ceiling.

Going down!

With limited light, it was hard to see the direction, but it's one way down and the same way out so you just trust the flow of traffic. 

Looking back towards the entrance as someone climbs up.

Once inside, I was mesmerized by the hundreds of magical utterances carved into the walls with spells for protection, resurrection, and ascent to the heavens with language that identifies Teti with Ra, Osiris, and the imperishable stars. Teti's Pyramid Texts are still very solar with the sky and stars depicted on the ceiling but with stronger Osirian themes of death, rebirth, and the underworld which becomes central to Egyptian belief later on. 

Across the way, we entered the Tomb of Kagemni who lived at the end of the 5th Dynasty as a vizier under Unas, Teti, and possible Pepi I. The mastaba tomb near Teti's pyramid is focused mainly on Kagemni himself and it is famous for some of the most naturalistic reliefs of the Old Kingdom. Standout scenes depicted include fishing scenes with elaborate details and hunting in the marshes; movement is more fluid than earlier tombs. 

We then drove to the Step Pyramid of Djoser, a king of the 3rd Dynasty, which is symbolic as it is the first pyramid ever built. Djoser's pyramid sits in a vast ceremonial complex enclosed by a massive limestone wall with 14 false doors but only one real entrance. In climbing the wall for a better view, you get the most iconic view of Djoser's Pyramid: the cobras. 

These are pure power symbols made to magically repel chaos and evil, mark royal territory, and symbolize the king's divine right to rule. The uraei are rearing cobras, shown ready to strike, and by Djoser's time it was already one of the most potent symbols in Egypt. After exploring the complex, we made our way to a late lunch at a local restaurant in Saqqara followed by a rush hour drive back to Cairo. By the time we got back to the hotel, we quickly repacked our bags for our early morning flight to Luxor. 

Built around the 4,000 year old site of Thebes, the ancient capital of the New Kingdom, Luxor is said to be the world's greatest open-air museum and after visiting myself, I would definitely agree. The modern East Bank city has grown rapidly in recent years and is home to many of the temples including Karnak and Luxor. Landing at Luxor Airport following our very early morning departure from Cairo, we were in the car on the way to Karnak Temple by 8 AM. 

Karnak Temple is the largest religious complex ever built. Dedicated to Amun-Ra, the king of the gods, along with his consort Mut and their son Khonsu, Karnak was expanded over generations of pharoahs starting in the Middle Kingdom and reaching its massive scale in the New Kingdom. Its layout is deeply symbolic with its obelisks acting as frozen sunbeams honoring Ra and the Sacred Lake allowing priests to perform ritual purification. Entering Karnak, the ram-headed sphinxes are one of the most striking features that line the processional avenue connecting Karnak to Luxor Temple. These sphinxes have the body of a lion but the head of a ram, symbolizing the god Amun. Amun was often associated with the ram because they represent fertility, virility, and divine creative power. Below are some scenes from Karnak Temple. 

The Great Hypostyle Hall is the centerpiece of Karnak, featuring 134 colossal columns with capitals shaped like papyrus plants. The walls are covered in reliefs depicting gods, kings, and rituals, creating the impression of walking through a primeval marsh, the mythical place of creation. I could've spent hours marveling at these columns! 

Following our visit, we made our way to the less crowded West Bank. In contrast to the East Bank, the West Bank rises abruptly from the Nile into arid desert cliffs and plateaus. Historically, the East Bank represented life, daily activity, and regeneration while the West Bank represented death, eternity, and cosmic order with the Nile acting as a boundary separating mortal life from the sacred land of the dead. 

After about an hours' drive from the East Bank, we arrived at our hotel. Designed around a series of ten private courtyards nestled amid lush gardens and palm groves, Al Moudira feels like a timeless oasis in the middlf of a desert. With its uniquely decorated rooms complete with hand-painted frescoes, antique furnishings gathered from across the Middle East, and its domed courtyards, this hotel easily became an all time favorite of ours. Photos below! 

After a few relaxing hours at the property and a farm-to-table lunch, we made our way back to the East Bank to embark on a sunset felucca cruise. A felucca is a traditional wooden sailing boat often found along the coasts of Egypt, Sudan, and the Mediterranean. Used for thousands of years, these boats were historically used for transporting goods, people, and livestock. Today, they're used for scenic, relaxed rides at sunrise or sunset and for day trips along the Nile. Quieter than a traditional motorboat, feluccas rely on wind and rowing, making it a very peaceful way to experience the Nile. 

Onboard, we were treated to a traditional Egyptian dinner of grilled meats, stuffed grape leaves, tabouleh, hummus, vegetables, and knafeh. 

The following morning was another early morning wake up call for me: 4:30 AM. It was finally hot air balloon day! 

Leaving the hotel early in the morning.

Being located on the West Bank, I had a shorter drive than most to the launch site. As with any hot air balloon, there is a period of waiting where you're sitting in the car while the hot air balloon pilots reassess flying conditions; operations are always subject to the weather and, while uncommon, sometimes the balloons can't take off. After just a few minutes, we got the "ok" and drove past 20+ balloons until we reached our balloon for the morning. Firing up the balloons at 6 AM, the pilots began to instruct guests how and where to get into the basket. 

Unlike the hot air balloons you find on safari where you typically climb into the basket sideways, you need to climb the Egyptian balloons using a series of footholds on the side of the basket. Once you reach the top foothold, you have to essentially straddle the balloon, swinging your legs over it before dropping down into the basket. Each compartment of the basket typically fits about four guests shoulder-to-shoulder. There's not much room to move around for the one-hour flight, but I can promise it's worth it. After a chaotic few minutes of getting everyone into the basket, we lifted off just after 6:10 AM.

Soaring high, we began flying over Luxor's West Bank. We soared over the Mortuary temple of Thutmose III, the Ramesseum, Valley of the Nobles, the Colossi of Amenhotep III, Amenhotep III Sun Temple, the Colossi of Memnon, and Madinet Habu Temple. Watching the sun rise over these monuments was incredible and really gave Luxor a sense of scale. Photos below! 

We could even see archaeologists at work!

The beginning of the sunrise.

Flying over Habu Temple.

Arriving back to the hotel at 8 AM, I sat down for what became the best shakshuka of the entire trip, made entirely from the hotel's on-site produce.

Shortly after, the adventure continued: it was time to board our luxury Nile cruiser! Stepping onboard the Oberoi Philae, we were in shock at how spacious the cabins were... definitely the largest on any river boat we've been on! The boat also had an incredible rooftop, a pool, gym, and even a hair salon. 

After settling in to our cabin and enjoying lunch on board, we disembarked in the late afternoon for a visit to Luxor Temple on the East Bank. 

Avenue of the Sphinxes, which linked Karnak to Luxor.

Unlike Karnak Temple which was built over centuries, Luxor Temple was primarily constructed during Egypt's New Kingdom and dedicated to the Theban Triad. The temple was begun by Amenhotep III and later expanded by Tutankhamun, Horemheb, and Ramesses II. Ramesses II added the grand entrance pylon flanked by two massive statues of himself and obelisks. The walls at Luxor Temple are decorated with reliefs showing gods, kings, military victories, and religious rituals. Later periods left their mark here as well; parts of the temple were converted into a Christian church and then a mosque, which remains in use today. 

In some places, you can even see frescoes painted over hieroglyphs! 

Today, Luxor Temple is completely integrated with the city around it, blurring the lines of civic and sacred place. This layering of history makes the temple a true living monument spanning ancient, medieval, and modern Egypt. 

The following day was, you guessed it, another jam-packed morning to attempt to beat the crowds as much as possible. Going back across the Nile, we made our way to Luxor's West Bank once more for a visit to the Valley of the Kings. Carved into a series of limestone cliffs, the rugged, narrow valley offered security, natural camouflage, and protection from floods making it an ideal place for royal tombs. Tombs in the valley are rock-cut chambers descending into the cliffs with corridors, pillared halls, and burial chambers with vivid hieroglyphs, painted scenes, and funerary texts, some even with sarcophagi still inside. The Valley of the Kings contains over 60 tombs, though the exact number varies slightly depending on new discoveries and reclassifications. Only a handful of tombs are open at any given time due to the fragility of the hieroglyphs and structural integrity, so the tomb rotation changes periodically. While some tombs are included with the general admission ticket, you can also purchase additional tickets for some of the special tombs including Tutankhamun's tomb and Seti I. 

The first tomb we entered was KV2, Tomb of Rameses IV of the 20th Dynasty. Unlike some of the other tombs, this tomb was accessible and visible for centuries so there isn't a single documented modern discovery date, though European explorers and Egyptologists formally documented it in the 19th century. The tomb has a straight-axis layout with descending corridors leading to a central burial chamber and the walls are richly decorated with funerary texts like the Book of Gates and the Book of the Dead along with painted scenes of gods, protective deities, and the king's journey to the afterlife. Inside the burial chamber, you find painted walls showing the sun god Ra, Osiris, and the king in the afterlife, guiding him through the underworld... and the colors are all original! Pictures below. 

From there, we walked to KV62, the tomb of Tutankhamun, the boy pharaoh of Egypt's 18th Dynasty and one of the most famous archaeological discoveries in history. Unlike most tombs in the Valley of the Kings, it was found largely intact. It took Howard Carter and his patron, Lord Carnarvon, five years to find the tomb of Tutankhamun and then ten more years to record and remove its contents. The tomb's entrance lies below that of KV9, which is probably why it remained so intact. The tomb is relatively small and simple, reflecting Tutankhamun's short reign. Despite its modest size, it was packed with treasures from jewelry and chariots to furniture, ritual objects, and the famous golden funerary mask all of which you can see at the GEM today. The tomb begins with a narrow descending corridor which was largely empty, serving as the initial barrier between the living world and the tomb's sacred spaces. 

The first main chamber was crammed with furniture, chariots, ceremonial beds, and boxes of ritual objects. The central burial chamber houses his wooden sarcophagus nested inside three gilded coffins with the innermost being the famous solid gold coffin. The walls are painted with scenes from the Book of the Dead and Amduat, depicting the king's journey through the underworld, protection by gods like Osiris and Anubis, and his eventual rebirth. 

Today, his mummy is still inside the tomb on display (though I think Egypt will eventually move his mummy to the GEM to join the rest of the collection of treasures). 

From there, we went to KV9, the tomb of Rameses V/VI. 

Originally built for Ramses V but later expanded for Rameses VI, it is one of the largest and most elaborately decorated tombs in the Valley of the Kings dating back to the 20th Dynasty of the New Kingdom. The tomb opens with a sloping ramp cut into the valley floor. 

The first long corridor is richly decorated with scenes from the Book of Gates with the sun god Ra passing through the twelve gates of the night guarded by serpents and deities. The second corridor continues the underworld narrative, adding material from the Book of Caverns. The imagery here becomes more complex with the punishment of enemies, regeneration, and rebirth. 

The Pillared Hall is next (my favorite) with an architectural pause before the deepest sacred spaces. The walls here combine multiple funerary texts reinforcing protection and cosmic order. This space likely functioned as a ritual stopping point during burial ceremonies. 

Beyond the pillared hall, a third corridor carries scenes from the Book of the Earth focused on the sun god emerging from the depths of the underworld. 

From there, the antechamber acts a threshold to the burial chamber, where there are two sarcophagi. The ceiling here is incredible with its richly decorated astronomical scenes including the goddess Nut stretched across the sky, swallowing and rebirthing the sun. The walls here synthesize all major funerary texts, visually surrounding the king with protection, time, and cosmic order. Out of all the tombs we visited, this was by far my favorite! 

The last tomb we entered was that of Seti I (KV17). This is largely considered the most beautiful and most important tomb (though I disagree with the most beautiful!) 

Seti I's tomb is the longest tomb in the Valley of the Kings, stretching over 430 feet. It descends gradually into the cliff through a sequence of corridors, halls, and chambers but unlike other tombs, it feels spacious and carefully proportioned. Unlike other tombs, this tomb has also been heavily restored and it's the most expensive tomb to visit as a result. One of the most complex and controversial conservation stories in Egypt, the tomb was heavily damaged after its discovery in 1817. Early explorers removed wall sections, copied scenes with wet paper squeezes, and exposed the tomb to humidity, smoke, and human traffic. As a result, early restorers repainted sections of the tomb. The big debate now is, "should we restore how something looked, or preserve what survives?" Now, they've decided not to repaint as faded, damaged pigment is considered more valuable than a modern reconstruction. 

Out of all the tombs we visited, this was my least favorite as the paint colors seemed fake and heavily pigmented. It was also the most crowded, which meant it was incredibly hot and dusty inside. After a quick look around, we continued on to an alabaster workshop to see how alabaster is found and carved. 

From there, we visited Habu Temple, properly called the Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III at Madinet Habu. One of the best preserved temples in all of Egypt, this mortuary temple was a place where the king was worshipped as a divine being after death and where rituals kept cosmic order intact. Habu Temple is enclosed by a massive fortified mud brick wall, blending temple, palace, and fortress in one complex. 

Habu Temple contains the most detailed historical battle reliefs in Egypt. On the outside wall, you see the classic "smiting the enemies" motif, one of the most powerful and politically loaded images in ancient Egyptian art. Here you see Ramesses III grabbing a group of enemies by the hair with one hand while raising a weapon with the other. Scenes such as these represent the pharaoh as a protector of Egypt, the king enforcing maat (cosmic order) and chaos being physically subdued. At Habu Temple in particular, these enemies often represent The Seas People, Libyans, and other foreign groups threatening Egypt. Sometimes the figures are shown with distinct hairstyles, clothing, and facial features, making the scene both symbolic and ethnographic. 

In Egypt, you always need to look in all directions and Habu Temple was no exception; the vulture motifs on the ceilings here had beautiful, original color. 

Before we headed back to our boat, we made a quick photo detour to the Colossi of Memnon. These two massive seated stone statues depict Pharoah Amenhotep III seated on his throne with hands resting on his knees gazing east towards the rising sun. Together, they once guarded the entrance to Amenhotep III's enormous mortuary temple which was once the largest in Egypt, though most of it has now been lost to floods and stone robbing. Each colossus stands about 60 feet tall and is the first monument you see as you enter the area surrounding the Valley of the Kings. 

By now, it was late in the afternoon and we had to go back onboard for a late lunch followed by an afternoon of sailing down the Nile River. 

This part of the Nile was very wide, with palm trees and greenery at the river bank and mountains of sand off in the distance. In the early evening, we passed through the Esna Lock which is part of a barrage and lock system that controls the Nile's water level. When boats are stuck in the lock queue, vendors in small motorboats glide up alongside the boats. These vendors have mastered the art of the rope toss; they throw a bundle of scarves, garments, cotton clothing, etc. up onto the ship. If you want something, you put money into the plastic bag and send it back down and if not,  you send the item back down. 

The next morning we had docked in Edfu, roughly halfway between Luxor and Aswan. It's a small but active town with a population of around 60,000 people and is best known for the Temple of Horus. The Temple of Horus at Edfu is one of Egypt's best preserved temples and dedicated to, you guessed it, Horus the Falcon. 

Buried in sand and silt for centuries, its architecture, reliefs, and some original color is preserved. Its layout guides people from the monumental pylon gateway through an open courtyard and hypostyle hall to inner sanctuaries, creating a progression from the human to the divine. The walls are covered with reliefs and inscriptions depicting Horus' battle with Seth, priestly rituals, and ceremonial festivities. The statues positioned at the temple entrance and throughout the complex represent the god as a vigilant protector and divine king, watching over the temple, the city, and the Nile ensuring that chaos (Seth) cannot enter. Photos below.

Inside the sanctuary, there is a replica of the sacred barque (boat) used in religious processions. This was used during festivals such as the Sun Boat Festival to transport the statue of the god. 

One of my favorite reliefs is one where Horus is harpooning the god Set, who is in the form of a hippopotamus. This relief illustrates a key myth in which Horus avenges his father Osiris by defeating Set, the embodiment of evil. 

Back onboard our boat, we had a traditional Egyptian buffet dinner before we called it a night. 

By morning, we had docked in Aswan, which lies at the First Cataract of the Nile where the river narrows and creates natural granite islands and rapids. One of the most picturesque cities in Egypt, the city is surrounded by desert hills with the Nile providing the lush, fertile strip of land for agriculture. We drove over the Aswan High Dam, one of Egypt's most important modern engineering projects meant to control flooding, provide water for irrigation, and generate hydroelectric power. The dam created Lake Nasser, one of the world's largest artificial lakes, which stores water for agriculture and helps regulate the Nile's flow year-round preventing destructive floods that once swept through the valley. 

From there, we drove towards Philae Temple where we boarded a small boat for a quick boat ride to the temple itself. Dedicated primarily to Isis, the goddess of magic, motherhood, and kingship, it became an important religious center in the Ptolemaic and Roman periods as one of the last active pagan temples in Egypt. The temple was originally located on Philae Island before the construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened to submerge it. UNESCO led a relocation project, moving the temple stone by stone in the 1960s to preserve it at its current location on Agilkia Island. Below are some photos. 

Taking a boat to get to Philae Temple.

By the late afternoon, we stopped for a visit of the Nubian Museum followed by lunch onboard and the remainder of the day at leisure. 

The next day, we disembarked the boat after a quick breakfast and made our way to the airport for our 45 minute flight over Lake Nasser to visit Abu Simbel. Located very close to the Sudanese border on the Nile's west bank, the temples at Abu Simbel were carved directly into the cliffs as a symbol of royal power and divine authority. There are two temples at Abu Simbel: a Great Temple dedicated to Ramses II and the gods Ra-Horakhty, Amun, and Ptah, and a Smaller Temple dedicated to his queen Nefertari and the goddess Hathor. 

Panorama of both temples at Abu Simbel.

The Great Temple is famous for its four exterior colossal seated statues of Ramses II with smaller statues of his family at their feet. 

Inside, you pass through a hypostyle hall with eight pillars carved to resemble Ramses as Osiris, god of the afterlife. The walls are decorated with battle scenes including the famous Battle of Kadesh. 

In the second hall, there are smaller columns and more reliefs depicting offerings and religious ceremonies. 

At the heart of the temple lies the sanctuary where four statues stand: Ramses II, Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty, and Ptah. The sanctuary was designed so that twice a year on February 22 and October 22, the rising sun illuminates the statues of Ramses II, Amun-Ra, and Ra-Horakhty, leaving Ptah (the god of the underworld) in shadow. These dates are believed to mark Ramses' coronation and birthday, thus showcasing the ancient Egyptians' astronomical precision. 

The Smaller Temple at Abu Simbel, often called the Temple of Hathor and Nefertari, was built by Ramses II to honor his queen alongside the goddess Hathor. The facade features four statues of Ramses II and two of Nefertari, a significant choice because queens were rarely depicted at nearly the same size as the pharaohs. 

Inside, the first hall is decorated with ritual scenes including the pharaoh and Nefertari making offerings with wall reliefs depicting ceremonies and festivals with Hathor prominently featured as a goddess of music, protection, and joy. The sanctuary contains statues of Nefertari and Hathor, reflecting the temple's dual dedication. 

Like Philae Temple, UNESCO also relocated Abu Simbel. When the Aswan High Dam was created, Lake Nasser would have completely submerged both temples. To save them, an international UNESCO-led project was launched to cut, move, and reconstruct the temples on higher ground. To do so, the entire cliff was cut into massive blocks, some weighing up to 30 tons. To recreate the feeling of the temples being carved into a cliff, a man-made "mountain" was built around the reconstructed structures. The artificial rock mimics the original granite cliff and maintains the monumental scale and visual impact. 

After a few hours at Abu Simbel, we drove back to the airport where we ate our packed lunch at the gate as we waited to board our 45-minute flight (and the last flight of 2025) back to Aswan. Once we landed back in Aswan, we set off on a shopping mission. When we were in the Valley of the Kings, I had seen a woman wearing a cartouche necklace (cartouches are an oval frame in Egyptian writing that encloses a pharaoh's royal name and they typically appear in hieroglyphic inscriptions on tombs, temples, statues and monuments). We stopped at silver jewelry store where the jeweler sketched my name in hieroglyphs for a custom cartouche necklace and gave me the below description (the modern version of the meaning):  

E - always looking for happiness in your life

L - L for lion; a brave heart; never are you afraid of anything

I - Straight lady; you are honest and when you need something, you ask directly

S - You like to travel so much 

S - You come to Egypt twice!

A - You are strong and beautiful

 

 

By the time we checked into our hotel, it was nearly 5 PM on New Years' Eve. We sat on our patio overlooking the Nile (an incredible view), ordered room service, and called it an early night ... we had a very early wake up call the next day for our early morning flight back to Cairo, a long layover in the Cairo airport, and a flight to Saudi Arabia! 

View from the room in Aswan.

Thanks for following along with our adventures. As always, follow my Instagram @elissatitle for photos and stay tuned for more!